The re-fit begins

[MattNoVAT]

So, after three and a half months away my car is now safely back in my garage. However it was delivered back 2 days before I went away on holiday... so after a week of chilling out in France catching big carp I've now started to refit the car.  Of course I could have paid the paintshop to do this for me but A) that would have cost even more money and B) I want to clean/check each part as its refitted C) I like restoring my cars. 

So last night the foam roof padding was stuck back in and the rear side windows were cleaned up and refitted. Tonight I have the roof lining to refit (never done that before) so that should be a laugh!  Have to get the interior mostly sorted out before next week as I'm having the front and rear screens refitted.

Would be interested in tips on the following:

Seat runner overhaul - how to get them to move back & forth with relative ease.

Manual window winder / worm drive - is it just a case of greasing the worm drive really well?

I know I'll need a couple of minor trim parts so will post that in Parts Wanted - when I know exactly what I'm in need of.

[hutch6610]

Spooky that ...... as i have recently done window regulators and seat runners.

First the window regulators.
Take it you have purchased two new cables from Betaboyz?
I personally removed the new plate supplied on the new cables, then unscrewed the old cables off the plate that bolts to the window, followed by screwing the new items onto the old parts  -  it can be done with a pair of grips and care.

Before you lube anything i would suggest you push the new cables down the tube looking for tight spots (usually where the bends are) they get damaged on removal when you get annoyed.
Just use a screwdriver to pry them open a bit.

You want to get new grease into the gear inside the riveted plate that bolts to the door with the winder spindle.
Only way i have really found to do a good job is the drill the riveting to break the items into two - then cleaned them up with solvent and then packed with fresh grease.
You then have two options, either have the two parts spot welded together or drill and rivet them with ordinary pop rivets.
Its a fiddly affair to re assemble.

The cable you then refit, wind up and put the bottom stop on with new rivets.
Lube the cable worm after to save your self oily hands, i used gear oil as its nice and thick.
Just pour it into the slit in the guide tube so the felt core soaks it up and believe me use plenty - then just make sure it works and hang the item up and allow it to drain off the excess.

Seat runners are "interesting" to take them apart - don't put oil into them as the rubber covered part of the metal roller will expand and make them even tighter to operate.

You need to get the runners apart to service them.
With the seat upside down, lock the handle in the "move" position to make life easier for your self.
Slide them all the way in one direction and have a look into the runner itself, you should see the roller and if you are lucky can pluck it out with a screwdriver.
If not use a welding rod to push them out, then slide the runner in the opposite direction and remove the one in the other side - again use the welding rod if you have to.

When the rollers are out, the runner should slide off without too much difficulty - mark the orientation with tippex or some thing so as you don't get confused.
The runner tracks become distorted as well over the years and what with the foam particles from the seats, fag ash, hair, grit and God knows what else make them very stiff to operate.

Clean up both sides with solvent and once cleaned try them out to see how bad they are, if still very stiff (usually) use an angle grinder with a soft back disc and dress the edge of runners still attached to the seat until all stiff spots are gone. - sounds brutal i know but you wont regret it.

The next step is the rollers themselves, best way i have found is to rub them down with course sandpaper on a block - reduce the diameter as the rubber usually becomes swollen from lube or just age.
The purpose of the rubber is to maintain pressure on the runner rails to stop rattling.

Once they have been reduced and the runners are relatively smooth - put a smear of grease on the edge or the inner rail only where it will make contact with the outer one, don't put any on the surface that makes contact with the rollers.
You want the lube on the edge only.
Slide the rail back and forth a few times to make sure its not binding and pop the rollers in, one either side - push them in with a screwdriver.

If you have reduced the rollers just right the runner will slide nicely but will still appear a little stiff until its bolted back to the car.
On refitting don't forget the four large packing washers that go under the bolts (they prevent the mechanism on the seats from snagging the carpet on the rear box section the seats bolt too, leave these off and the seat wont go back as far as they should.

Also don't forget the four "stop" plates under the Allen cap bolts - they keep the rollers in check.     

Its actually longer to describe the job than doing it.

Anyway - enjoy!

[MattNoVAT]

Thanks Hutch,

Before all the interior came out you needed to set off a 50 mega-ton nuclear bomb directly under the passenger seat to get it to move, so I'm determined to fix that.

Windows were not too bad as were replaced with new originals back in 96 when first restored, so hoping a few tweaks here and there will suffice, if not then I'll be buying new ones again!

It does look very shiney at the moment, but a little spartan as all of the trims are off the car.  Wont be long though 

Thanks again

[hutch6610]

No need to tell you to watch out for sharp objects or even blunt ones like walls, everything has potential to damage new paint - screw drivers in pockets or even belt buckles and fly/overall zips.

Seeing as you have new old stock regulators, a lube job with oil should suffice.

Have fun.

[MattNoVAT]

The refit has stalled 

[MattNoVAT]

So my Coupe's re-fit is nearing the end and the car is about to go off and have the front & rear screens refitted then an MOT and fingers crossed she's back on the road.

The pictures of the roof repairs can are on my site which was actually supposed to be just about my second HF 3000 build - but the Beta work has crept in.

WWW.StratosMatt.com then go to "My Beta Coupe" section

[MattNoVAT]

Other than it being somewhat slower than planned the re-fit is now progressing well,

This weekend I spent Sunday morning with my Dad sorting out the numerous electrical gremlins that seems to have crept in while the car was away being painted.

N/S rear light cluster - only side light worked,turned out that the connector that plugs onto the rear light cluster the sprung connectors needed bending upwards to form the connection. Indicator had an issue with N/S barrel connector from the relay, one wire had been pushed out as the barrel was plugged in and hence circuit was broken.

Number plate lights - one was rusted to bits and causing a short - replaced with NOS so that was easy.

Beta Boys Headlights wired up - and now they are the dogs danglies !

Interior lights - bad earth.

Reverse lights - Turned out to be good old crusty connection in the cables that convert from 3 pin plug to two pin.

So electrically........ EVERYTHING WORKS !!!

1.Windscreen wiper assembly needs refitting.
2.Spare wheel retaining clamp needs securing as someone has sheered off one bolt (job for the RivNut gun)
3.Bonnet release cables need "fettling" as N/S one has snapped & rest are poorly adjusted.
4.New battery connectors need fitting as even with a new battery starting the car is "laboured"

[MattNoVAT]

Big day today as the front and rear windscreens have been refitted.

Tonight the new BetaBoys bonnet liner gets fitted and I change the gearbox oil then providing the windscreen wipers don't take 15 minutes to do a cycle then it's MOT time.

A few minor jobs are still outstanding but these can be done in at a more relaxed pace.

The only annoying niggle is that I put the new bonnet grille on and have put the 7 little securing clips somewhere safe..... so safe that not even I can find them! Anyone know where I put these?    Silly me!

[MattNoVAT]

The re-fit is now complete and the MOT is booked for tomorrow - so fingers crossed.

Overall - I'm quite pleased  

Lets hope the MOT goes well !

[MattNoVAT]

Well - she was an "Almost made it" today at the MoT testing.

All the car failed on was emissions - CO being 1% above the pass mark of 4.5%.

I think that the timing needs a little tweak as I think its possibly retarded too much, because...

A: It feels a little down on power.
B: It has a tendency to overheat.
c: CO emissions are a tad too high.


So, out with the timing light tonight and a little play with the dizzy.  Then a bit of a drive round in the morning before it goes back for the emissions re-check.

Other than that she positively flew through everything else. :-)

[HFStuart]

Very smart Mat - when does it get it's first outing to a show ?

[MattNoVAT]

Passed the emission test this morning after a tweak of the timing and a little thrash up the road for 5 minutes.  New CO reading was 2.353% - so much better :0

Not sure when its first official outing will be - I'm on the shortlist to go see Top Gear on 8th July - so may take it there!

I want to concentrate on getting the engine tuned properly next.  Then will tax it once we are into July then drive her on these lovely sunny summer days!

[Monte Jon]

Wow, nice spray job mate, many memories of you and that Beta.  Drive like an Italian!  Jon.

[MattNoVAT]

Hi Jon,

Yes, indeed many many good memories of driving round Windsor & Slough (especially the Drift Road)

Got any pics of your Monte ?

[hutch6610]

Wow MOT's are strict in your part of the world.
I thought 25 years and over (in your case 29) the emission test is a visual "smoke" test no probes.

Good you finally got it through.

[lanciamad]

Car looks gleaming in the pics , i'll look forward to seeing it in the future at some event

I thought 25 years and over (in your case 29) the emission test is a visual "smoke" test no probes.

So did i hutch, but when i first got my HPE Mot'd he said yeh everythings fine but your emissions need tweaking initially i thought he was joking, then got them bang on with a fiddle of the air flow meter; even if he did take the emissions figure initially based on a delta

[MattNoVAT]

My local MOT man is great - but the emissions test is very strict.  They run different emissions test programs based on the actual year of manufacture.  Extreme, yes but I do see the point.  He did give me some pointers and said that these days even some far more modern cars fail the emissions tests due to them doing nothing but frequent short journeys the vehicles do, so they give the cars a good run out and then test then again. That satisfies the emission probe!

I have clocked up 70+ miles over two journeys and I can feel the car improving with use.... Blowing out the cobwebs I guess!  

Very enjoyable I must say

[MattNoVAT]

So, the final chapter in my cars journey back to being properly sorted was completed today after a trip to Airey Tuning and a test & tune up on the rolling road.

The car was a bit down on power and lacked torque.  Credit to Tom Airey who diagnosed pretty much all that was wrong by revving and listening to the engine then putting it on the gas analyser and and running it up on the rolling road.  Millers Lead substitute + octane booster was added and then the car was checked again, the primary was running to lean and secondary was running too rich, so after a bit of tweaking and taking the secondary jet out to 240 then another rolling road test, then a little more  to 250 on the secondary all seemed to be spot on. So off for a run for 12 miles and then back for a test and a plug check - which was perfect.

The result was a transformation, it now ticks over consistently and no longer hunts around.  You can feel the improvements through the torque, and improved/smoother power delivery and also less stress on the engine when you roll off the accelerator.  Tom's tuning helped it regain 10 - 12 BHP and I'm told better fuel economy will result.

Also got Toms advice on which fuel to use, (Shell V-Power or BP Ultimax - as they are best fuels with low sulphur) and which fuel additives work/are best (Millers)

Net result was that its now knocking out 118 BHP one less than what the books say it should - in the grand scheme of things I'm very happy ( a little poorer but a lot happier)

Thoroughly enjoyed pottering around the Hampshire countryside today in the sunshine   

Now just a few little finishing jobs to sort out.  - Guess I should change the title of this thread to the refit ends!