Hubs, Nuts & Torque.

[Tony B]

It's that time where the jobs are getting smaller as we head toward the MOT I've an O/S outer CV boot to swap (original from JBS Manchester) and from memory inside the hub there's a 'spider' held onto the shaft by a circlip?? Did I mix that up with another car - Fiat 128?? Anyway, I've got the required 36mm socket and even a new hub nut to put back. A heads up on how to / what to do, would be of great benefit - could also do with the torques setting for the new hub nut.

Hope you folks can help.

Kind regards,

Tony.

[MattNoVAT]

This is my most unfavorite job !

Remove the hub nut (Blood. seat, swearing and a chisel required)

Disconnect the suspension from the hub carrier

Disconnect the steering arm tie rod.

The drive shaft should just then slide out with a bit of wiggling.

Hold the outer CV staight, i.e. in line with the drive shaft, if its not straight you'll struggle with the next bit!! Then have to give it a sharp whack (I use either a rubber mallet) there is a circlip that sites in a groove and stops the shaft from simply pulling out of the outer CV, thats what you trying to overcome.

Change the CV boot, refitting is the reverse.

I had to do this job on a Renault Espace last year and I went for the universal split boot that you glue once fitted.  Worked a treat and took 1/4 of the time because I did not have to dismantle one corner of the car.

Hub nut torque = " F tight "    - Will check tonight when home as in the office today, unless someone else has access to the manual.

[peteracs]

This is my most unfavorite job !

Not sure I want to hear this as I have a small split on one of mine and having just spent ages trying to get the last of the 4 nuts off the downpipe to manifold (resorting to grinding the nut off now as cannot get socket or nut splitter on it and spanners just round it off, and that was after heat and easing oil....)

Oh well the joys..

Peter

[WestonE]

Peter

Before you get in too deep try Super glue. If it really is a small tear on an otherwise sound boot clean the edges of the split with brake cleaner allow to dry and apply the super glue keeping your fingers well out of the way! This can work well for years.

For getting the hub nut off find a high power impact wrench and impact socket or perhaps buy the best buy item from Machine Mart. Remove the disc for access, cut or chisel away the nut crimp and set to with the impact wrench. This is WAY easier than a 10 foot scaffold pole and breaker bar.

Eric 

[peteracs]

Hi Eric

It is small (at least on the side I have closely looked at), so will try the glue technique.

Thanks for the impact suggestion, hopefully will not have to go that route for a while.

Peter

[Tony B]

Cheers for the heads up, mine's a bit trashed and beyond the super glue stage and I'd invested in a 36mm impact socket, so we'll give the gun a go with it. Just been fitting the back box Matt sent me (absolute hero) and realised the trumpet flange won't seal without a bit of exhaust stodge so it's part 2 in the morrow. Also got my cam cover gaskets so they're also on the list for tomorrow - exhaust cam cover weeps when cold and then it's manifould-tastic when it gets hot; doubt Mr MOT man would appreciate it all

Matt also suggested the torque needs to be tight (flippin tight - or to that effect) for the hub nut so we can live with that 

Once again thank you all  - I genuinely feel supported!!

Finally, any idea why the Vegliaflash has packed up. Other items fed from fuse are working?? Also, my first ie. had a flashing handbrake light that 'clicked' - annoying but this one doesn't 'click' and I sort of miss it...

Best regards,

Tony B.

[MattNoVAT]

The clocks do just give up the ghost sometimes.

Sounds like your indicator relay has been replaced at some point, probably with one from a Delta, which do not have the flashing handbrake warning.

[Tony B]

Cheers Matt,

Didn't think the delta was the same - clearly is! The clock (Vegli) seems the same as the S2 so I don't doubt someone will have one out there. It's not top priority anyway. Thanks again for the tail pipe.

Regards,

Tony

[MattNoVAT]

I have one fitted to my car because my idicator relay packed up and I needed to get it through the MOT.  Original Beta ones with the handbrake warning indicator are very hard to find.

[WestonE]

For me the fitting of a modern electronic flasher unit is a must for quiet reliable indicators along with fixing the handbrake light to just be a light. The original drives me crackers.

Eric

[peteracs]

For me the fitting of a modern electronic flasher unit is a must for quiet reliable indicators along with fixing the handbrake light to just be a light. The original drives me crackers.

Eric

Eric, just think of all that nostalgia you are missing!

Peter

[HFStuart]

Just to add my experience to this.

I got bored with hub nuts and bought myself a 3/4 breaker bar (about 5ft long) a while ago. I lock the hub using a bar and two old wheel bolts - I've yet to encouter one that didn't come undone and I don't have to worry about snapping the knuckle.

On the beta I split the inner flange and take the driveshaft to the vice rather than trying to do it on the car, I also tend to replace both gaitors at the same time (circlip to slide off the inner joint) working from the inner joint end.

Stuart

[thecolonel]

Although I have a compressor and windy guns,
I purchased a Kingston electric wrench, clips to
battery. Useful tool for a tender.

When you put the driveshaft back together you
will find a spacer ring, this slides over the circlip
to.enable you to push the shaft back in to the hub.

Geoff

[MattNoVAT]

BTW - the torque settings for the hub nut are:

231 lbf  /  314 nm

[Tony B]

Thanks Chaps - Matt as you said, flipping  tight!! Will crash on with this next week as we're away at weekend.

Regards,

Tony

[dougdee123]

I also removed the nut using hammer and chisels various.

The next question is how did you get it back on and torqued up to the correct spec? My Torque wrench doesn't go anywhere near the 231 lbf.

Whilst I do not claim that mine is a good method it is a working method. I used a wheel brace that has a 1/2" end and a section of 'substantial' tube and an axle stand (to support the opposite end of the wheelbrace. Then using the principle of moments calculate where on the tube you have to stand knowing your own weight and the required torque. It works for me and it could work for you. You provide entertainment to bystanders when you stand on one leg over the critical point. 

The main difficulty I had was getting the socket out of the hub after because the socket was/is a tight fit.
Doug