rossocorsa
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« Reply #40 on: January 16, 2012, 08:57:40 AM » |
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Cleaned the cam carriers today after removing the old cam seals, they'll need a final buff up but they came up pretty well using some Lidl metal cleaning spray (quite cheap at about £1 a tin). Unwrapped a pair of 130TC cams I've had for some years, thankfully still in seemingly good nick and gave them a quick clean I'll be using the inlet cam if all goes well. I am not aiming for big power increases if I gain a little top end I'll be happy +10% would be nice (that's with dcnf40/130tc inlet cam/smaller blower pulley on original induction system)
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« Last Edit: January 16, 2012, 09:05:11 AM by rossocorsa »
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slowe
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« Reply #41 on: January 16, 2012, 10:24:01 PM » |
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Looking well organised rossocorsa. I don't think I will be stripping my engine down - I doubt if I would be able to find all the bits never mind about putting them back together again!
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #42 on: January 16, 2012, 10:35:47 PM » |
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I'm putting everything into grip top bags with write on panels but it's still difficult to keep track of stuff this engine had new bearings and rings etc. not long before it was taken out of a very rusty hpe a few years back so I am not doing a full strip down it's mostly precautionary and to replace the gaskets and seals.I have no engineering training at all so it's very hit and miss !
Alan
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« Last Edit: January 17, 2012, 12:28:30 AM by rossocorsa »
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thecolonel
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« Reply #43 on: January 16, 2012, 11:27:26 PM » |
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I purchased a wolf parts cleaner 3.5 gallon tank £32. Plus Clarke cleaner fluid 2 gallons £10. Makes light work of cleaning parts. Great investment.
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #44 on: January 17, 2012, 09:04:59 AM » |
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good idea but for me I'd struggle with space I'm struggling at the moment actually but just about managing
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #45 on: February 02, 2012, 12:34:25 AM » |
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very little progress been distracted by step daughter Julia and her search for flats in Lincoln and of course just by being plain lazy. The cold weather just doesn't inspire me! I have started to clean up the engine block coolant channels using what could best be described as a magnet on a stick, quite a lot of debris in there not at all nice I can't flush it through/clean in a tank as i am not taking out the crank or pistons (a decision which I may live to regret but the car had new rings and big end bearings not long before it was removed from it's old home and it did run OK aside from low speed fuelling issues)
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slowe
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« Reply #46 on: February 03, 2012, 10:12:11 PM » |
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My enthusiam has lowered along with the temperature. Once I can go into the garage and still feel my fingers after 10 mins i'm sure the situation will change.
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #47 on: February 03, 2012, 10:43:41 PM » |
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Baaah its not that cold.... I'll be changing front & rear discs and pads on a VW Sharan tomorrow morning.... outside!
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL 1976 1600 Coupe S1 2007 Ypsilon 1.3 Bi-Colori
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WestonE
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« Reply #48 on: February 08, 2012, 07:59:43 PM » |
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I for one will be hiding in the heated workshop for the next month. There is nothing like being frozen solid for making horrible mistakes, but then I am a soft southerner.
Happy fiddling.
Eric
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #49 on: February 08, 2012, 08:06:40 PM » |
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I must admit, it was minus 7 early on when I started changing the rear discs/pads but luckily it warmed up to 2 degrees later on for the front discs/pads, fitting the new fan speed resistor and fixing the passenger side elec. wing mirror. Sunday everything was covered in 4 inches of snow so I didn't serve the engine...... I'm not mad
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL 1976 1600 Coupe S1 2007 Ypsilon 1.3 Bi-Colori
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #50 on: September 25, 2012, 08:12:43 AM » |
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« Last Edit: September 25, 2012, 08:16:10 AM by rossocorsa »
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #51 on: October 27, 2012, 09:06:00 AM » |
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Not getting very far at the moment due to lack of any spare cash for parts as well as a lack of time. I have dismantled the second engine which against my original expectations might be the better of the two. This engines bottom end doesn't seem to have ever been apart bearings are worn through to the copper but look smooth. I haven't got the pistons out yet though.
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« Last Edit: October 27, 2012, 09:07:31 AM by rossocorsa »
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #52 on: October 27, 2012, 07:39:01 PM » |
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Been over to GC and good news on my crank as it measures up OK :-)
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Dr Acula
Jr. Member
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Posts: 25
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« Reply #53 on: October 28, 2012, 12:11:31 AM » |
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Well done. That will save you a few quid then! Love following threads like this, just shows how inadequate I am on the car fixing front hence why I get folk to do it on my behalve !
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #54 on: October 28, 2012, 12:18:47 AM » |
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Well done. That will save you a few quid then! Love following threads like this, just shows how inadequate I am on the car fixing front hence why I get folk to do it on my behalve ! still lots to do and lots to spend, even though crank measures OK it will need new bearings and a full preparation job which i'm not really competant to do myself....
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #55 on: January 05, 2013, 11:06:09 PM » |
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Just a note so that folks don't think I've entirely good given up! Both engines are in bits now, the one that was in the car despite not being 'rebuilt' like the spare does seem to measure up by far the better of the two, badly rebuilt would have been a better description . Somehow I need to do as perfect an engine rebuild as possible on minimal budget and with no previous experience....... The bodywork is near enough done but the big task of stripping the paint for a bare metal respray is ahead but not until I can afford the materials. Anyway I am told that the car must be finished in time for daughter Julias wedding expected to be in 2014 but maybe she should consider a later date?
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #56 on: January 05, 2013, 11:26:04 PM » |
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Alan,
Stripping to bare metal is pretty easy. Nitromors or similar strong paint stripper and a roll of polyurethane. Generous coat of paint stripper then PU sheet over the top to stop the active chemicals from evaporating. I use a small dry paint roller to squeeze out air bubbles. Leave for 45-60 mins.
The a good quality scraper to first take off the layer of lacquer then repeat the process and your down to bare metal. My coupe took 2 days to fully strip of paint.
A coat of Jenolite wiped on with a clean rag will stop the bare metal from getting surface rust. My blue coupe is still bare while the weldathon continues and there is no surface rust at all. (9 months now)
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL 1976 1600 Coupe S1 2007 Ypsilon 1.3 Bi-Colori
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #57 on: January 05, 2013, 11:38:24 PM » |
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I stripped a 2000HF years ago so I know the drill just a bit pointless to do it until necessary, no option but to bare metal it as it has had more than one respray in the past and the last one was pretty bad (before my time) poor preparation meaning that whilst the finish was ok you can peel the paint off in sheets!
Sent from my MOMO11 bird using Tapatalk 2
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #58 on: June 23, 2013, 10:33:03 AM » |
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slowe
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« Reply #59 on: June 23, 2013, 10:14:33 PM » |
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Good luck rossocorsa. I like the sound of your ambition !
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