Lancia Beta Forum
November 23, 2024, 10:52:51 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Looking for Lancia Beta parts: www.lanciabetaparts.co.uk
 
   Home   Help Contact Admin Search Calendar Gallery Articles Login Register  
Pages: 1 [2]
  Print  
Author Topic: Wheel.......bearings  (Read 17758 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
WestonE
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 1772


« Reply #20 on: January 09, 2011, 03:16:28 PM »

Get the tool from Mark but first tap out the indent lock on the ring then use an impact gun to shift the ring. To put old bearing out and in try to borrow a press as hitting bearings will have you doing it again!

Eric
Logged
mangocrazy
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 1366


Graham Stewart


« Reply #21 on: September 02, 2018, 10:57:30 PM »

Major thread revival alert...

I've recently been engaged in trying to get the set of uprights/hubs/bearings I acquired from Peter (peteracs) broken down into their constituent parts, so I can refurbish the uprights and use them for my (current) cunning plan. After reading Mark Wastnidge's account of how he made up a 'special tool' to remove the bearing retaining ring, I followed his lead and bought an M30 bolt (with 46mm head), cut off the shank and ground the underside of the bolt head flat. I then acquired some 12 x 8mm bar and cut one long length (63 mm) and 4 short lengths (23 mm). The indents in the retaining ring are 8mm wide. I then tack-welded the 63mm length in place on the underside of the bolt head and (having seen the rubbish quality of my welds) took the rest along to a professional welder to finish off.

All the pieces were positioned in the retaining ring (still fitted to the hub/upright assembly), with the bolt head sitting on top and the welder then welded the other 4 legs in place from on top. He then flipped the 'tool' upside down and welded all the pieces to each other and the underside of the bolt head. I haven't taken any photos, but will do if anyone is interested.

Even after giving the retaining ring some serious heat, followed by a soaking in Plus-gas, and attacking the retaining ring with my new tool and a mains-powered electric impact gun, the retaining ring only unscrewed painfully slowly. It took ages hammering away with the impact gun until it eventually gave best and unscrewed. Why are these things in so tight? Is it lack of lubrication when fitting, corrosion or work-hardening in use? I stress I was doing all this at a workbench with a hefty vice, good lighting and a full array of tools. Doing it in situ must be a nightmare...
Logged

1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
smithymc
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 681


« Reply #22 on: September 07, 2018, 07:28:14 AM »

I seem to recall that I measured the tool I borrowed from Peter, with the intent of producing a drawing.

I will dig about and see how far I got.

Mark
Logged
mangocrazy
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 1366


Graham Stewart


« Reply #23 on: December 03, 2018, 12:04:21 AM »

At some point in the not too distant future I will be fitting new wheel bearings to the uprights I've overhauled, with new retaining rings supplied by Betaboyz. In theory it should be possible to re-use these retaining rings, but corrosion and over-zealous staking seems to take sufficient toll on them that most people replace them each time.

Has anyone tried using Loctite to secure these rings rather than staking them? I wouldn't use the high strength green stuff, but medium strength blue Loctite should stop any possibility of the rings unscrewing by themselves. Loctite also acts as a corrosion barrier, which should be useful.

Interested to know if anyone has tried this approach.
Logged

1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
mangocrazy
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 1366


Graham Stewart


« Reply #24 on: December 06, 2018, 11:30:22 PM »

Due to the deafening silence, I'll take that as a 'no', then...  Smiley
Logged

1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
WestonE
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 1772


« Reply #25 on: December 07, 2018, 11:50:27 AM »

Hi Graham

I have always staked them, but just enough to locate them given how tight they are fitted.

Eric
Logged
mangocrazy
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 1366


Graham Stewart


« Reply #26 on: December 07, 2018, 02:53:23 PM »

Hi Eric,

Yes, that would be the other option. The only ones I've ever had to remove were in unbelievably tight. Took about 20 minutes with the proper tool and an impact gun to free them off, so I concluded that staking them was definitely belt and braces.

Graham
Logged

1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
Pages: 1 [2]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
SMFAds for Free Forums
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!