Gearbox removal

[Nigel]

Start by removing:
Battery and tray [if possible]
Clutch cable disconnect, and remove cable tower from g/box top.
Disconnect speedo cable at diff, lay on top somewhere.
Disconnect earth strap from gearbox.
Remove gear shift linkage bolt to shaft, use a screwdriver to part it slightly.
Remove shift rod stirrup, noting the position of the lower nut. Tie up rod out of the way.
Remove engine top tie bar and refit the engine-end bolt.[used to support the engine later]
Unbolt the starter motor,and either leave tied up or remove completely.

Now raise the car and place axle stands just behind the wheel arches,on the body, so that
you have the tyres 3 to 4 inches above the ground, no higher.

Remove right front wheel, complete strut,brake caliper [hang up high inside shock tower]
brake pads,hub nut, disconnect tie rod, disconnect bottom ball joint, remove hub assembly.
Remove large rubber tie rod gaitor, small steel brake pipe protector and [front] inner wing
shield,drive shaft and bottom flywheel cover plate. That order is recommended.

Use a 70x70 timber, cut to sit on both inner wing-top flanges, drill a 13mm hole above the
engine-end bolt mentioned earlier,and here,I used a hook from a ladder clamp and its spinner.
[A piece of 12mm all-thread bent to a hook at one end,washer and nut is equally good]
Tighten to take some tension,and stop. The ideal engine position is normal position.

Next, remove rear gearbox/diff mount and front mount long bolt. Adjust engine support to suit.
Next, remove nearside subframe bolts,and slacken offside bolts about 6 turns. Using a big bar, lever
down the nearside of the subframe and place wood blocks of about 50mm thickness. You are restricted
by the exhaust down pipe,stop when contact is made to the subframe. That'll be enough.

You will now have to bend up a small section of the inner wing,pictured, to allow gearbox exit.

Support the gearbox on a trolley jack and remove the 3 bolts and one nut, gearbox to engine fixings.
I substituted the top two bolts with slotted studs of about 70mm [12mm metric fine] to maintain alignment. Pic refers.
The box will now wiggle out and suddenly become very heavy. It will 'slide' over the subframe and
wishbone to ease handling.

Refitting is essentially reverse order. An assistant is advised but not essential.

[JohnFol]

That's a really neat fusebox above near side wing. Was it original Lancia?

[peteracs]

Hi Nigel

Thanks for that, not trivial, but sounds very doable in not too silly a timeframe and an awful lot quicker than an engine out job.

Peter

[Nigel]

That's a really neat fusebox above near side wing. Was it original Lancia?

Hi John,
Yes,came with the car. It originally had a lot to do
with the a/c system. I've also seen these on auto's.
The relay for the cooling fan is in there.

Regards

[squiglyzigly]

Interesting exhaust manifold. I’ve never seen that on a beta.
Is it a Beta fitment in a different market?

Cheers
Ian

[peteracs]

Hi Ian

Well spotted looks like down pipe is different to suit it as well

Peter

[Nigel]

Interesting exhaust manifold. I’ve never seen that on a beta.
Is it a Beta fitment in a different market?

Cheers
Ian

Perhaps one of our Australian readers can shed some light. That's where
this car came from. The down pipe is 50mm, and the front section is stainless.