donaldb7
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Scotland
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« Reply #40 on: March 10, 2021, 10:47:03 PM » |
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Unfortunately they don't post that to my location Why, where are you? Scottish Highlands
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donaldb7
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Scotland
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« Reply #41 on: March 25, 2021, 03:06:18 PM » |
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So I've been having some issues with spark! So far, I've put in a new battery and swapped in a new rotor arm, distributor cap, HT leads and plugs but still zero spark on turn over. I've also checked the resistance of the coil which sits at 3 Ohms so I think that's good, but correct me if I'm wrong please. What else could be causing the issue?
Cheers
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peteracs
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« Reply #42 on: March 25, 2021, 03:54:18 PM » |
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Hi Donald
Is your car on traditional points and if so have you checked the gap?
Then disconnect the coil from the points and hook up a 12v bulb one end to the battery, the other to the wire to the points, when you turn the engine over by hand does the bulb light and go out as it turns? If you get permanent bulb on or not at all then you have an issue with earth or capacitor. If you get turn on/off then...
Next reconnect the coil and arrange for the lead from the coil to go to a spark plug if you can fit one onto the end and see if you get a spark whilst turning over the engine on the starter. If no spark then either coil or lead.
Assuming a spark then the issue is with the disti cap and or cables.
Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600 Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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WestonE
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« Reply #43 on: March 25, 2021, 05:25:04 PM » |
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Check you are getting 12V to the coil ignition on as well.
Eric
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donaldb7
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Scotland
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« Reply #44 on: March 30, 2021, 10:13:33 PM » |
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In the process of resetting the gap on the contact breaker, I noticed a tiny bit of corrosion on the points. Low and behold, after a quick clean = spark at last!
By squirting some fuel into the carb, I've managed to get the car to fire for the first time! What a joy that was... However, the engine is running rough and it seems like the fuel getting to the carb is inadequate. Therefore, I've been thinking about a new fuel pump and I've reached the crossroads between mechanical and electric.
Does anyone know how I'll be able to find the Gallons Per Hour rating of my Beta in order to select the correct pump if I choose to follow up with the electric pump? Currently looking at Holley's range.
Also looking at replacing the rubber lines. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I believe its 8mm and 4mm bores.
Thanks for all of the advice so far!
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Nigel
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« Reply #45 on: March 30, 2021, 11:14:56 PM » |
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Hi Donald For your car i'd recommend the electric Huco 'pull' pump from Fast Road Cars.
It's around £65.00. Beware of cheap copies, ask me, I know!
It's designed to fit in the engine bay, pulling fuel. Lots of info on this forum on how to install. You can leave the existing pump in place, or remove and fit a cover plate.
I'd also suggest an inertia switch as a safety precaution. Any will do the job.
On hoses, get the Gates branded items, and make sure they are suitable for ethanol-based fuels.
Hope this helps Nigel.
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza. 2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended] The past: 1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!] 1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased] oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
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peteracs
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« Reply #46 on: March 30, 2021, 11:24:15 PM » |
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Hi Donald You need R9 rated fuel hose and get branded, not Ebay etc as stories of relabelled R6 etc. As to sizes I seem to remember 8mm and around 5mm, but easy enough too measure. See this for discussion on petrol pipes http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/fuelhose.htmPeter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600 Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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donaldb7
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Scotland
Posts: 41
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« Reply #47 on: March 31, 2021, 12:11:37 AM » |
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That's great! Thanks guys
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donaldb7
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Scotland
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« Reply #48 on: December 02, 2022, 04:13:05 PM » |
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Some updates on the build. Not getting many chances to work on the car but I had a week and a bit recently to get some work done. New brakes finished, calipers shot-blasted and rebuild, new master cylinder, all new hardline apart from the line from the master cylinder to the the rear compensator as it was still in good condition and would've been tricky to get it out given the limited height I can get the car to. New softline all all four corners. Brakes have been bled and tested. so far so good...
Tank came out and has been drained and dried before the corrosion and old paint was removed and repainted with a heavy duty metal paint. Inside of tank prepared and lined with POR-15 incase of any pinholes. The fuel lines were all good aside from the last metre or so, which has been cut out and replaced with the suitable hardline and fixed to the underside of the car.
I'll attach some photos below
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donaldb7
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Scotland
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« Reply #49 on: December 02, 2022, 04:14:38 PM » |
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Front Calipers
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donaldb7
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Scotland
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« Reply #50 on: December 02, 2022, 04:15:20 PM » |
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Tank and small section of hardline
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WestonE
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« Reply #51 on: December 02, 2022, 05:27:36 PM » |
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Great work and looking like it will be an excellent car.
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peteracs
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« Reply #52 on: December 03, 2022, 02:38:06 PM » |
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Hi
Nice work, are you using copper pipe for the hardlines?
Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600 Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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donaldb7
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Scotland
Posts: 41
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« Reply #53 on: December 03, 2022, 05:40:20 PM » |
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Hi
Nice work, are you using copper pipe for the hardlines?
Peter
Hey Peter, Yeah it’s the cupro nickel alloy stuff! Nice and easy to bend, especially for the tight spots on the firewall!
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peteracs
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« Reply #54 on: December 03, 2022, 10:51:34 PM » |
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Hi
The colour in the photo looks like copper, the copper/nickel I have used looks different hence the question.
Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600 Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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