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Author Topic: Dipping or shot blasting  (Read 2180 times)
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Simongore
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« on: May 09, 2020, 03:06:14 PM »

Afternoon folks
Having made the decision to do a full restoration on the lancia spyder I am now trying to establish if I should dip the shell or blast it.
I am going to strip down completely even to removal of the wiring loom.
It has had quite a few crudely fitted plates around, especially on the rear turrets.
I’m thinking that with the dipping process at least it would kill any hidden rust.
Also a pal told me you never get rid of all the shot when it’s been blasted.
Any thoughts and has anybody got any idea of costs on the dipping process
Thanks in advance
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1980 beta spyder
1985 beta coupe vx
1982 beta hpe vx
1991 lotus M100
1994 Williams Clio One
WestonE
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« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2020, 08:21:47 PM »

Dipping is what I did using Envirostrip. You get rid of the terrible sealant. Just drill holes to ensure the process can get old sealant and pain out.

Be prepared for seeing the real state of the car though.

Good luck

Eric 
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HFStuart
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« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2020, 11:05:26 PM »

I had mine done at Prostrip by pyrolysis (heating it up in a low oxygen atmosphere) and the phosphoric acid dipped. That's good as the iron phosphate coating is very effective at stopping flash rusting of bare metal. When it's finished (when...) it will go back to be dipped again and immersion coated.

I'd be happy to recommend either Prostrip or Envirostrip.

I've heard mixed things about Surface Processing Ltd - both that the hydrochloric acid they use remains active in seams for a very long time so must be pressure washed out with care and of their customer service too.

Whoever you use it'll be the thick end of £1000 to get it stripped but as one of the guys in the club said to me do you want to do half a job or do you want to know it's been done properly?  It will reveal things you didn't know were there. In my case I was pleased with the general condition but a bit shocked by some of the bodges.

See this thread https://www.betaboyz.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3644.0




« Last Edit: May 09, 2020, 11:18:30 PM by HFStuart » Logged
peteracs
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Peter Stokes


« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2022, 03:40:35 PM »

Hi

Just following on from this topic, thought you may find this video from Retropower interesting as a comparison.

https://youtu.be/x3q8eRTydEo

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
WestonE
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« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2022, 12:40:27 PM »

I remain delighted to have used Envirostrip (heat process) and having inspected ALL box sections with an enviroscope before injecting Dinitrol I believe getting rid of the old sealant and paint is worth it. The only area I had some residual debris was in the roof box section and one seat support box section. This is nothing to the blast media that finds it way into very inconvenient hard to remove places clogging drain holes. My shell had been blasted by a previous owner. I completely agree thin metal must be cut out no matter what treatment you use. I had to do this under the seat box section and it was not very hard to spot.

You need to have a lot of confidence of no rot in box sections to blast. In which case soda blasting would be my choice. If in doubt buy an inspection scope and look.

Eric
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