Neil-yaj396
|
|
« on: March 24, 2019, 08:31:03 AM » |
|
The 1300's MOT (more later.....!) necessitated a swap round of cars and taking the ie to Pudsey. Entering a fast bend I changed down to third.The gear was selected but the stick immediately went limp in my hand and no further gears could be found. After stopping for a think I was able to proceed to my destination in third gear, a great tribute to the torque and sheer grunt of the 2000ie engine.
It is possible to select gears at the gearbox end, and the linkage there makes a vague movement when the stick is moved, so some connection remains. Just seeing if anyone else has had a similar experience, and if so which part of the linkage had failed, or any thoughts?
I'll crawl under the car next weekend and see what I can see.
|
|
« Last Edit: March 24, 2019, 09:29:48 PM by Neil-yaj396 »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
WestonE
|
|
« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2019, 10:14:50 AM » |
|
The hopeless weak cross link. Go through and re bush the whole linkage and use the HD Ideal Link Mark supplies in place of the weak cross link.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
peteracs
|
|
« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2019, 02:33:11 PM » |
|
Hi Neil
You should be able to see it from above, albeit you will need a torch.
Agree with Eric, the original if you still have it will be well past it's sell by date.
Peter
|
|
|
Logged
|
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600 Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
|
|
|
|
WestonE
|
|
« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2019, 10:41:05 AM » |
|
Hi Neil
Yes that part plus a full set of new bushes and the replacement gearlinkballs if he still has them. Fixing the gear linkage will transform the drive of the car.
Eric
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
peteracs
|
|
« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2019, 09:31:20 PM » |
|
Hi Neil If Mark does not have them, you can buy the kit here http://www.fiatlancia.usPeter
|
|
|
Logged
|
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600 Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
|
|
|
Neil-yaj396
|
|
« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2019, 09:24:24 AM » |
|
This will be why the gears are not selecting! Not the cross link. Total failure of a bush.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Neil-yaj396
|
|
« Reply #7 on: April 29, 2019, 07:59:31 PM » |
|
Any recommendations as to how to get the ball joint into the Betaboyz bush without breaking it? A much tighter fit than I expected. At £26 a pop I don't want to risk cracking it by using a hammer...
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
betabuoy
|
|
« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2019, 09:01:40 PM » |
|
Hi Neil I’ve not fitted these yet but the nylon should soften in boiling water and, to ease the press, try washing up liquid as lube. I’m keen to read other advice if it’s out there; otherwise, get the kettle on! Chris
|
|
|
Logged
|
1979 Beta Coupe S2FL (1st registered May 1983!) 1967 Morris Minor Traveller 1925 Austin 7 Chummy
|
|
|
betabuoy
|
|
« Reply #9 on: April 29, 2019, 09:35:33 PM » |
|
Further to my last, been reading back a few posts and found Eric’s post:
“Put some waterproof cycle grease inside the nylon cups and use G clamps or water pump pliers to squeeze them nylon cups onto the pivots. This will transform the gear shift.” So I guess it’s G clamps and confidence!
Hope this helps.
Chris
|
|
|
Logged
|
1979 Beta Coupe S2FL (1st registered May 1983!) 1967 Morris Minor Traveller 1925 Austin 7 Chummy
|
|
|
peteracs
|
|
« Reply #10 on: April 29, 2019, 09:59:45 PM » |
|
Hi Neil
A long time since I installed these, but do you have to install the ball first or install the bush into the bar first?
There was also a comment in my instructions not to use grease as it causes issues with the bush long term. I guess the issue then is how to keep water out from causing rusting of the ball which was present on all of the balls I recovered some to an alarming degree.
Peter
|
|
|
Logged
|
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600 Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
|
|
|
Neil-yaj396
|
|
« Reply #11 on: April 30, 2019, 07:07:11 AM » |
|
Yes, Mark's instructions say no lube and G clamp to get the bush into the link after installing the ball joint. The issue with a G clamp for installing the ball joint would be keeping it straight, as it will need a hell of a lot of pressure.
Not sure about water as Peter says.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
WestonE
|
|
« Reply #12 on: April 30, 2019, 08:50:59 AM » |
|
Hi Neil
I have done this successfully. I would press the bush into the link first using boiling water thick rubber gloves a g clamp and large sockets. I use cycle grease in the cup because it is water proof, will not damage the nylon and gives a longer service life. You next press the pivot into the bush using the same hot water large sockets G clamp/ water pump pliers approach. When fitted add a circlip to the groove in the bush made for it and job done.
PS any rough pivots (filter does not let me call them B**s) should be made smooth and shinny with metal polish if you have not got new ones.
Enjoy the result and try not to swear. It does work.
Eric
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Neil-yaj396
|
|
« Reply #13 on: May 01, 2019, 09:53:46 PM » |
|
Thanks Eric, where do the sockets fit into the procedure?
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
WestonE
|
|
« Reply #14 on: May 07, 2019, 03:12:33 PM » |
|
Hi Neil
Around the outside of the bush pressing on the metal ring of the linkage so the pivot can press into the nylon which expands.
Cheers
Eric
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
mangocrazy
|
|
« Reply #15 on: May 08, 2019, 02:57:44 PM » |
|
While I was in France I was reading this thread and remembered that I had two bushes and ball joints sitting in the garage, so I decided to give it a go. Instead of using boiling water I used a hot air gun and instead of G-clamps I used my Record vice (other makes are available...)
It all worked remarkably easily. I found a large nut (spanner size about 24mm from memory) and placed that between the pointy part of the bush and one jaw of the vice. I used two nuts on the threaded portion of the ball joint so that one nut was fully home against the end of the thread nearest the ball and the other nut was slightly proud of the other end of the thread. This meant that both surfaces being tightened were on flats.
I then popped a small amount of Silicone grease into the bush (silicone grease has no effect on nylon other than to grease it) and loosely clamped all the pieces between the jaws of the vice. The order was
1. Big nut 2. Bush (pointy end towards nut) 3. Ball 4. Two nuts on threaded portion of ball joint
I then gradually warmed the whole plot with the hot air gun until everything was nicely hot but not dangerously so. I then tightened up the vice and the ball popped into the bush as easy as you like. Not much pressure was needed. Once everything had cooled down the fit was perfect; nice free movement of the ball within the bush and no slack.
I can thoroughly recommend this method.
|
|
|
Logged
|
1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL) 2002 VW Transporter T4 2017 KTM Duke 690R 2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco 1992 Ducati 888 SP3 1988 Honda VFR750F 1980 Yamaha RD350LC
|
|
|
Neil-yaj396
|
|
« Reply #16 on: May 14, 2019, 07:12:29 AM » |
|
Thanks for all the tips. All done now, and wow, yes, the Betaboyz kit totally transforms the gear change as Eric says.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Ammy
|
|
« Reply #17 on: May 23, 2019, 07:53:27 PM » |
|
Just had my linkage renewed and had difficulty with 5th gear, adjusted linkage as previously, now get all gears except reverse, What am I doing wrong ?
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Neil-yaj396
|
|
« Reply #18 on: May 25, 2019, 07:28:21 PM » |
|
Reverse is still tricky on mine. I's suggest adjusting the link on the end of the front linkage (front of gearbox). It probably needs shortening slightly.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Ammy
|
|
« Reply #19 on: May 25, 2019, 09:39:36 PM » |
|
How sensitive is the adjustment screw, I think I may be "overdoing it" when adjusting.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|