ideas on stopping the tin worm

[blazer_one]

Can anyone help with the following
i am just cutting the tin worm out of my vx coupe in the normal places like jacking points and 1 sill end along with the back valence and i was trying to decide what the best method is in trying to get and kill the tin worm in the places you can't really get to without having to replace inner & outer sills.
anyone know of a rust killer like jenolite that you use like waxoyl that i spray and fill the sills and doors with.

Thanks to one and all and also to hutch who helped with my previous question on the supercharger oil.

simon

[MattNoVAT]

Simon,

I looked for something similar to what your describing.  I did not find anything so I resigned myself to using Jenolite and an array of different brushes to apply it with (I made up an extension handle for some of them to get into the hard to reach places)

best of luck!

[blazer_one]

Matt

thanks for your response
i agree jenolite is the best rust killer around but i was hoping that there now is a product that you could spray like waxoyl.
i shall have to design one cos there must be a market for it!!
do you know if waxoyl has any rust killer properties or will it just cover it?

cheers simon

[cheeky monkey]

Hi Simon

you could try the dinatrol products. like RC800 then 3125. http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/classic_cars.aspx

cheers
graham

[blazer_one]

Graham

Thanks a lot this is exactly what i have been looking for.

From what i can see from the 1st look it looks like it will cost £100 but i think will be well spent.

did you use it?

regards

simon

[cheeky monkey]

Hi Simon

ive used the 3125 and its good. I havnt used RC800 or checked its chemical make up but its description is like hammerite korust. I think you might be alright with the medium size kit if you are doing most of the car.

cheers
graham

[hutch6610]

If you do have difficult areas to get at which have light rust or just want to prepare the metal before priming/stone chipping etc try "Metal Ready"
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8229&frostProductName=Metal%20Ready%20(20oz,%20590ml)

Comes with a pump dispenser and stops the bare metal from going rusty again as your restoration progresses.
Works really well after sand blasting - may be beyond the average home workshop.

Use sparingly as it drips everywhere.

I just don't like aggressive acid rust removers - they are very difficult to remove out of the "pores" of the metal i have found and caused (for me anyway) new rust under the paint on a few previous restorations a few years later.

Anyway its a personal choice, if you get on well with Genolite type of removers then good luck to you.

[rossocorsa]

a lot of rust in the sills is caused by the sunroof drain tubes make sure you reroute them. waxoyl works well but when sprayed neat it is too thick to cover sills properly  so ,if you use it, thin it with white spirit and be prepared for dribbles on the drive and a very heady stink for a few weeks also make sure that you check that it hasn't blocked any drain holes once it is dried and don't waxoyl it until you are 100% it will not be going in any spray booths/ovens for a while painters hate waxy puddles in their ovens