beta coupe 1979 - 1600 from belgium

[George-S]

that's it not 100% done but getting much closer !

When it came to doing the back like your doing right now I also removed the inside panel makes it easier to seal when you put it back together .. yet again all very ruff at the mooo

[fred2660]

your car seems even worse 

[fred2660]

welded some more and started to paint the inside of the car with a rust primer

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still have a lot of welding to do

ordered also a haynes manual

anyone has a suggestion for a good inside sealent(?) for all the joints and to put over the welds, ? thanks

greets

[fred2660]

started working on the left door today , a bit of rust but not too scary. more important the electric window is operating just fine. connected it to a battery and it went up and down, and up and down...woohoo!!

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[George-S]

Nice work ! Not got to the doors yet on mine        .. I would advise using fiberglass or body filler on some of the worlds as you will probs allow water into the car.. that or it will just just again.  Rust primer and paint only does so much   .....

[fred2660]

little update. welded some more

corner of te hood

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rockers

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dissembeld the back calipers

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got some damage on a screw inside the caliper (dont know the name of the part)

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got to find to replace that. also still looking for the back struts (dont wanna buy them new)

greets

[Ricambi Storici]

Hi there,

if you didnt solve please write me an email at ricambistorici@gmail.com 

I have a couple of Lancia original rear shock absorbers NEW (also front ones).

thanks peter

I ran into the next problem. I removed one of the back struts( ?) and find some...rust

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dont know if i am gonna fix this or search for other (better) ones. its quite a vital part of the car. dont know if i am able to fix it


one of my favourite tools

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[fred2660]

hello there, a little update. I have been working on the car less consistent lately. the welding is getting boring and frustrating, especially the upside down welding;

anyways. I redid the rear left inner fender. the car really starts to look like frankenstein

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I also made a new back panel. the original was too rusted and no longer usable. I am quite satisfied so far by this job. look for yourself

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after this the welding is almost done (hopefully)

later....

[George-S]

Good work.. though I find welding 100000 times better then rubbing down body filer which I can imagine u might be needing some...

[lanciamad]

Great work, keep it up

[fred2660]

Hi

bored with the bodywork I started working on the brakes and suspension. Also new parts are comming in

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still looking for braking discs and the iron rings between the coil and the rubber in the rear suspension.

A lot of grinding and painting going on and today I reassebled a rear caliper. goddamn what a frustrating job. In the end I managed it but not looking forward for doing the other one. It took me more than two hours to find the way to do it, and i hope i did it right  (the posts in the technical pages were helpfull but in the end you have to find your own way)

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the other one, i will make more detailed fotos druing the process

cheers

[fred2660]

after rebuilding the caliper I keep on questioning myself how the whole mechanism works.  I dont understand how the piston can move up and down (by pressure of oil or air) in the caliper when the bolt in the back of the handbrake is screwed in the piston. the piston doesnt turn, neither does the bolt.

who can explain in easy words?
thanks

[Neil-yaj396]

after rebuilding the caliper I keep on questioning myself how the whole mechanism works.  I dont understand how the piston can move up and down (by pressure of oil or air) in the caliper when the bolt in the back of the handbrake is screwed in the piston. the piston doesnt turn, neither does the bolt.

who can explain in easy words?
thanks

Even a professional brake rebuilding company screwed up re-assembling my rear calipers, so not an easy job unfortunately.

[dougdee123]

The screw mechanism provides adjustment for the handbrake whilst the pads wear. The problem that is being solved is how to have two systems acting on the same pair of pads to provide retardation when in motion and to secure with the handbrake when stationary. When you assemble the caliper screw the adjuster part all the way in whilst still aligning the components. This acts as a ratchet adjuster. Visualize the cylinder moving toward the pad but the screw insert not being allowed to rotate. the intermediate section will rotate on the thread but not when the handbrake is activated.

The piston  should be fully inside its cylinder when you assemble everything and fit it to the car. When you pump the brakes in for the first time so that the pads are pressed onto the disc the screw thread of the adjuster will unwind and take up most of the travel so that it is near the disk for the use of the handbrake too. When your foot comes off the brake and the pressure in the braking system is off, the pads are free to come off the disc by an infinitesimally small amount allowing it not to bind.

The pads are then close to the disc and activating the handbrake applies a new force to press the pads onto the disc to hold the car. There is a a small tolerance of free movement so that the pads can again move off the disk when the handbrake is released.

I hope this helps.

[fred2660]

thanks dougdee, ok i'm starting to understand. the inner mechanism of the piston can rotate independatly, so the piston can go up and down whilst the screw does not turn.

I checked it

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thanks for the clarification

Now I had to start on the other caliper and knowing all this I decided to not to disassenble it totaly . I decided to leave the handbrake mechanism intact

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I cleaned it but didnt feel like to do the whole operation again. instead I would screw the piston over the screw from the top off the caliper.
I cleaned the inside of the caliper and placed the new o-ring wich i covered with some special grease. This grease makes it easyer for the piston to be pushed in

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then I screwed the piston in and placed the new dustcap

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I also put a lot of grease on the lever mechanism and replaced that dustcap also

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Now I can put it away and wait until I can install it.
Any suggestions or remarks, please shoot.

thanks, fred

[peteracs]

Interesting, just curious why use grease, albeit special type, rather than just use brake fluid to lubricate the bore?

Peter

[fred2660]

Interesting, just curious why use grease, albeit special type, rather than just use brake fluid to lubricate the bore?

Someone told me to do it and i bought it, but dont think it is so important (the tube is almost 10 years old  )

[fred2660]

started to put some sealent on the weldings and corners of the body

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think i am gonna grind it a little bit when its hard to make it a bit smooth. after that a coat of black paint


two guys of a car bodyshop came to look at the car and the weldings. they said i did a good job ( me happy)

greets

[fred2660]

some of my self made tools and home set-ups.
sometimes they work, sometimes not.  removing the wheelbearing from the rear hub is a real battle

now I am thinking to replace the ARB bushes with the rubber ones or the PU ones. any thoughts?


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[fred2660]

after a couple of days strugling with the vice and hammers and a lot of frustration i decided to buy a cheap hydraulic press. in a couple of minutes the hub was released from the axle and the bearing was out of the hub.    It looks like the former owner has 'worked' on this hub already

also bought new wheel bearings of QH, relatively cheap

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