peteracs
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« Reply #80 on: April 30, 2018, 03:09:53 PM » |
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Hi
To get the driveshaft off the outer CV I would separate the CV from the hub carrier, then I used a soft metal hammer or steel one if you are replacing the CV and clamped the driveshaft in a vice with the CV hanging don. You then have to strike the CV downwards hard. This is to force the round circling on the shaft to compress and allow the shaft to come out of the CV....
Not elegant, but I do not know of another way!
Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600 Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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fred2660
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« Reply #81 on: May 04, 2018, 08:09:54 PM » |
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thanks peter. I managed to do it.... but I got a lot of questions I dissassembles the both joints, cleaned the parts and reassembled them again I received the replacement cv joint kits, but i am in doubt of using them. like you can see on the next photo the shaft that goes in the bearing is ribbled instead of the factory one IMG_3796 by frederikleyers, on Flickr There was a gasket included with the inner joint. Where does that go? IMG_3798 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3799 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3800 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3802 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3803 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3805 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3806 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3808 by frederikleyers, on Flickr and finaly: I tought the wheel bearings in the front and rear hub were the same, ...not on my car. they are way smaller then the rear bearings IMG_3793 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3794 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3795 by frederikleyers, on Flickr
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peteracs
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« Reply #82 on: May 04, 2018, 11:04:10 PM » |
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Hi
The longer splines should not be an issue. The main problem I had with the CV I had was to do with the flange which interfered with the bearing when the whole thing was tightened up. This flange is the replacement for the dust ring which you have removed from the original CV. I had to have it machined to accept the ring. Your Cv may be more compatible and not bind when fully tightened hopefully.
Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600 Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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fred2660
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« Reply #83 on: May 11, 2018, 08:21:28 PM » |
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started with the filler. its the first time i do this and follow the instructions from some youtube video. I think its gonna take a lot of time...and dust IMG_3820 by frederikleyers, on Flickr the back section, I have to reform it because I welded a selfmade panel i it, but I don't want to use a too thick layer of filler. So these pictures are my first attempt to get a nice shape. The smoothness is not yet an issue here IMG_3821 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3826 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3827 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3830 by frederikleyers, on Flickr The tips of the hood... IMG_3831 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3838 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3840 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3841 by frederikleyers, on Flickr grts
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HFStuart
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« Reply #85 on: May 17, 2018, 08:32:57 PM » |
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fred2660
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« Reply #86 on: May 18, 2018, 06:52:39 AM » |
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I searched the internet some last night and found this polish website, http://www.auto-spinka.pl/en_GB/c/Lancia/3322 (no worries they have an english version) I made a little order and will tell if they fit when the clips arrive (shipping costs are low) grts
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peteracs
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« Reply #88 on: May 24, 2018, 08:25:41 PM » |
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Hi
That looks like a good result, I may we'll get some as I was short of usable ones from memory.
Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600 Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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WestonE
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« Reply #89 on: May 25, 2018, 06:45:35 PM » |
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Well done for finding those clips. Just what I need
Eric
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fred2660
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« Reply #90 on: June 03, 2018, 07:36:03 PM » |
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bored with prepping filler and sanding I cleaned the valves. THey are still within spec right is the finished one IMG_3866 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3862 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3860 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3859 by frederikleyers, on Flickr Question on the valve springs: mine outer springs are without the specifications in the haynes manuel. they are a little too much pressed together. Replace them? thanks, fred
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fred2660
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« Reply #91 on: July 19, 2018, 07:01:20 PM » |
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still working on the body. Definitely not my favourite part of the restoration proces. It is frustraing because sometimes i may have worked for a couple of hours but I don't have the impression that i made some progress. And on these youtube videos these guys have all the time of the world to spread out the filler, but with me i really have to rush or the filler is already drying out.( sorry for the complaints) IMG_3904 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3905 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3910 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3911 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3913 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3916 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3917 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3919 by frederikleyers, on Flickr My local paintshop is in holiday until the end of august, so that is my goal to have it ready for paint
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fred2660
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« Reply #92 on: July 28, 2018, 06:54:57 PM » |
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first it was gold, now it's grey... I sprayed a first layer of 2k primer which I have to block sand now. Probably gonna have to do two coats. Things are getting better IMG_3931 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3932 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3933 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3934 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3935 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3936 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3937 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3938 by frederikleyers, on Flickr the trunk I sanded already as a first attempt IMG_3939 by frederikleyers, on Flickr
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RichB
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« Reply #93 on: July 30, 2018, 08:45:44 PM » |
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Excellent work! Tres bien! Rich
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cheeky monkey
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« Reply #94 on: July 30, 2018, 09:28:20 PM » |
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looking really good Fred. Nice job G
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Graham
1979 beta coupe 1300
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fred2660
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« Reply #95 on: August 12, 2018, 07:48:30 PM » |
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replaced the doors and the trunk. Now it needs one more coat of primer and blocking, then it can go to the paintshop IMG_3940 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3941 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3942 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3943 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3944 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3946 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3948 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3949 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3951 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3952 by frederikleyers, on Flickr
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fred2660
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« Reply #96 on: August 31, 2018, 12:59:45 PM » |
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Hi all I started to put the engine back together. i forgat to take pictures during the process but what did i do?: I polished the valves , installed new valve springs, replaced all the gaskets and seals, new clutch, new clutch bearing, revised oil pump. still have to change the timing belt, measure the shims and replace the head bolts. Is it so important to change the head bolts? IMG_3955 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3956 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3957 by frederikleyers, on Flickr IMG_3958 by frederikleyers, on Flickr
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squiglyzigly
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« Reply #97 on: September 02, 2018, 08:33:45 PM » |
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It’s very worthwhile changing the headbolts, and the stretch bolts used on the later 8v twin cams are a very good upgrade for reliability.
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VX HPE (resto started Sept ‘21) Beta Saloon 2.0l s2 1979 (completed July 2020) Beta coupé VX (completed April 2017)
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #98 on: September 02, 2018, 09:04:53 PM » |
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It’s very worthwhile changing the headbolts, and the stretch bolts used on the later 8v twin cams are a very good upgrade for reliability.
They were also used on late series Betas I don't remember when exactly from but it wasn't just VX models. The original beta stretch bolts used normal heads but are readily exchangeable wth the later ones wth Ribe style heads these offer a more positive grip for torquing up although you need to buy a set of Ribe bits
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betaveloce
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« Reply #99 on: October 24, 2018, 02:07:16 PM » |
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Not out of the paintshop yet?
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Beta Coupé 1.8 '74 Beta Spider 1.6 '80 Beta HPE 2.0 i.e. '82 Delta Integrale 8V '88 Ypsilon 1.4 16V '09
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