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Author Topic: Beta Spider 2000 engine rebuild/refurb  (Read 49747 times)
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mangocrazy
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Graham Stewart


« Reply #320 on: October 18, 2024, 12:48:05 PM »

The pump is actually leaking from the body, not the seal. Anyway, pump and bottle are coming back to the UK with me for further examination. Didn't know you spoke Dutch?

But the elephant in the room is the mis-timed ignition. I need to take my bravery pills and get stuck in to it...

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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
mangocrazy
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Graham Stewart


« Reply #321 on: October 18, 2024, 04:06:32 PM »

OK, so I've taken the first steps, lined up some marks, checked the exhauist cam position on No. 1 cylinder and taken some photos. And perused (for the umpteenth time) the write up by Ian (75coupe) on static ignition timing. This one: http://www.betaboyz.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2099.0

The photos (hopefully) show that #1 exhaust cam is on the closing stroke, a tippexed line on the crank pulley lines up with one of the marks on the cam belt cover and the distributor with the cap off. The HT lead for no 4 cylinder plugs into the distributor cap pretty much 180 degrees opposite where the rotor arm is pointing to. I assume this is significant.

All advice gratefully received and happy to take further photos if you tell me what to point the camera at.


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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
mangocrazy
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Posts: 1362


Graham Stewart


« Reply #322 on: October 20, 2024, 04:09:49 PM »

Well, do I start with the good news or the bad news? Good news first, I guess.

Following a telephone conversation with Nigel yesterday evening I resolved to swallow my fears and get stuck into lining the distributor up correctly. I loosened off the 13mm bolt holding the forked clamp in place, and lifted and wiggled the distributor body and rotor arm until I had it where I wanted (rotor arm making initial contact with the HT lead for cylinder #4). After numerous clicks, the starter motor eventually caught and within a couple of revolutions the engine started and was off and running. Woo and hoo...!

But that was as good as it got, unfortunately. The engine sounded rougher by the second, there was a distinct exhaust blow noise (and this was after I'd had custom copper gaskets fabricated) and when I peered underneath the engine there was a steady drip drip of oil falling off the diff housing.

I honestly feel like I'm getting to the end of my tether. It's just one roadblock after another. I'll regroup and try and do some more investigation tomorrow, but right now I've really just about had enough. It's not helped by the van having a suspected faulty head gasket (or warped/cracked head) and we've got an 800 mile drive back on Friday. Plus it's getting harder to select 5th/reverse gears on the van as well.
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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
WestonE
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« Reply #323 on: October 20, 2024, 06:38:18 PM »

Hi Graham,

We all have these moments, but they are moments that pass. Get the timing light on it and check. The exhaust gaskets get an exhaust paste treat and re assemble. First find the oil leak then decide on the level of swearing/ re-work, but you might as well get the engine running well before fixing it unless it is epic.

Chin up Gin in!

Eric
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