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smithymc
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« on: May 18, 2016, 08:19:51 PM » |
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I gave up on this last year, but after a bad day at the office, I fancied getting the hammer out and got the discs off the front. My plan was to investigate 39 years of rust possibly moving the disc alignment off the hub, as they seem true when checked on a dial gauge, and only c 50% worn in terms of thickness.
There was some corrosion, but not much, so have cleaned it off, put it all back together and........ It's the same as it was.
Ok, so wheel wobble under braking,also felt through pedal, not really noticeable up to 40mph, bad 45-55, better at higher speed. I know that the answer may be to drive faster, but any suggestions? Wishbone bushes?
Thanks
Mark
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Ammy
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« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2016, 08:30:26 PM » |
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Not sure if this is any help but, my son had a similar problem with a SEAT Leon. Took him ages to find it, did everything you did, but eventually ended up changing the wheel bearing even though it wasn't showing signs of wear. Problem solved ! ! !
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smithymc
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« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2016, 10:00:47 PM » |
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That's interesting, as there is a very slight bit of float on the one bearing, which I have been trying to rule out as a potential culprit, which I found when clocking the the discs . I gather wheel bearing is pressed in type but as I have one, it may well be worth doing , as it will be in for MOT at the garage where they have all the kit in 3 weeks anyway.
Thanks
Mark
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smithymc
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« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2016, 04:23:11 PM » |
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Having had a look and a read the Haynes book of potentially misleading guidance, it looks a bit of tricky job, requiring special tools?
I dont want it stranded at the garage because they either cant get it apart, or need to destroy a part I can't easily obtain to reassemble it.
Has anyone any guidance or done a 'duffers guide to wheel bearing replacement'?
I have an impact driver so hopefully I can get the hub nut off, which I assume is an early hurdle in the job.
Mark
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HFStuart
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« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2016, 08:18:44 PM » |
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The only tricky bit is getting the bearing retaining ring out in one piece.
It's fairly easy to remove by breaking it but to remove it properly requires a special castellated socket.
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smithymc
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« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2016, 12:20:32 PM » |
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Ok thanks Stuart , I'll ask at the garage. I suppose I'll need a new nub nut too( pretty sure I've got one of those anyway)?
Any idea where I might get a new retaining ring?
The Haynes makes no mention of a tool to remove the ring but does say you need a press to do the job- true or false? The garage have a press anyway, but just in case I fancied doing it all myself......
Mark
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peteracs
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« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2016, 02:46:02 PM » |
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Hi Mark
There was guy on Ebay who was selling new ones (from Holland I think).
Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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HFStuart
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« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2016, 09:17:24 PM » |
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False.
A puller for removal and vice and sockets for reassembly work perfectly well
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smithymc
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« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2016, 07:34:48 PM » |
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Update.
New front discs fitted and............ It's exactly the same.
So I suppose it's on to the wheel bearing change, but need a bit more room, as we are baby-sitting a couple of motorbikes while next door have their garage re- built. Car could be wheeled out to do the discs, but a three wheel coupe stranded on the drive is best avoided if I run into trouble with the hub on the bench.
On the brighter side, MOT passed with no advisories again. I take that to mean the wobble can't be anything too obvious.
Mark
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peteracs
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« Reply #9 on: June 18, 2016, 11:16:04 PM » |
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Hi Mark
If you need the special tool for the bearing retaining ring, let me know and I can bring it at the Betameeta weekend as I just managed to buy one.
Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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betabuoy
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« Reply #10 on: June 19, 2016, 09:04:52 AM » |
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Mark
Probably a stupid thought but have you tried swapping the wheels around to eliminate the possibility of it being a tyre related problem?
Chris
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1979 Beta Coupe S2FL (1st registered May 1983!)
1967 Morris Minor Traveller
1925 Austin 7 Chummy
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smithymc
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« Reply #11 on: June 19, 2016, 01:58:55 PM » |
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Chris
No thought is stupid at this point!
I was actually wondering about it being a balance issue and that's an easy thing to try.
Thanks
Mark
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peteracs
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« Reply #12 on: June 19, 2016, 05:23:58 PM » |
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Mark
Probably a stupid thought but have you tried swapping the wheels around to eliminate the possibility of it being a tyre related problem?
Chris
Hi Mark On this subject, I once had a car where I could not get rid of what appeared to be a balance problem. The car was only 2 years old with limited mileage and so was unlikely to be worn bearings etc. Swapped the wheels round and had them balanced more than once, replaced two tyres with same type all without satisfactory solution. In the end I changed for different manufacturer and hey presto problem went away. Just a thought of all else fails..... Peter |
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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HFStuart
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« Reply #13 on: June 19, 2016, 09:36:59 PM » |
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Mark,
Just out of interest if you brake with the car in neutral does it still do the same thing?
Stuart
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lbcoupe76
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« Reply #14 on: June 20, 2016, 05:06:58 AM » |
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Another silly question but are the pads in the right way around, there is a front edge to pads and whilst they will still work they can cause vibrations if back to front.
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1976 Beta coupe 1800 "Kermette"
1975 Beta coupe 1800 x 2
1974 Beta Berlina 1800
1989 Thema i.e turbo
1988 Thema i.e turbo
Fiat 1500
Smoke me a Kipper i'll be back for breakfast
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smithymc
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« Reply #15 on: June 20, 2016, 09:26:52 PM » |
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All good suggestions and all things I can check out quickly.
Thanks all.
Mark
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smithymc
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« Reply #16 on: June 23, 2016, 08:37:52 PM » |
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OK - latest update for the clinic.
Wheels swapped front to rear - no change.
Braking in neutral - no change.
Mark
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peteracs
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« Reply #17 on: June 23, 2016, 10:06:44 PM » |
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Hi Mark
There was guy on Ebay who was selling new ones (from Holland I think).
Peter
I should of course of checked on Betaboyz site and both front and back are available. I just ordered a pair for the front. Peter |
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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smithymc
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« Reply #18 on: September 07, 2016, 08:35:27 PM » |
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An update.
Iffy wheel bearing was indeed knackered ( though silent) and was replaced by the garage with the help of Peters lock- ring tool, which worked a treat. The brief to try to come up with other ideas may have sorted it and tied it down to rear brakes. Simple really, if you pull the handbrake at 45mph plus, it gives the same effect.
So, off with wheels, out with dial gauge and one rear disc is indeed outs by 12 thou, the other by 2 thou, so should be it.
Have now stripped the 'better' side, the issue is now trying to get the new disc to run as true as the old one. What a faff! Have given up due to bad light/knees.
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smithymc
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« Reply #19 on: September 08, 2016, 08:07:16 PM » |
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Losing sense of humour now after another evening trying to get a brand new EBC disc (or indeed either of the brand new discs) to run anywhere near true. Not even stripped one side yet which is crazy.
Have cleaned the hub face to surgical standards.
The hub runs out by about 1.5 thou, but I can't get the fixed disc to less than 7 thou. Any tips appreciated as it won't be going to Manchester next week on axle stands!
Mark
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