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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #20 on: July 17, 2014, 08:10:52 PM » |
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I have have door grab handles if Peter cannot locate his spares.
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
1976 1600 Coupe S1
2007 Ypsilon 1.3 Bi-Colori
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lbcoupe76
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« Reply #21 on: July 22, 2014, 11:57:51 AM » |
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Hi Peter and Matt, certainly would be interested in grab handles if you have them. PM me and let me know what you would like for them.
Cheers guys.
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1976 Beta coupe 1800 "Kermette"
1975 Beta coupe 1800 x 2
1974 Beta Berlina 1800
1989 Thema i.e turbo
1988 Thema i.e turbo
Fiat 1500
Smoke me a Kipper i'll be back for breakfast
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #22 on: July 22, 2014, 05:17:44 PM » |
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What colour are you after? Black or brown?
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
1976 1600 Coupe S1
2007 Ypsilon 1.3 Bi-Colori
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lbcoupe76
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« Reply #23 on: July 28, 2014, 03:15:46 AM » |
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Hi Matt, after brown ones (black would be okay).
Thanks.
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1976 Beta coupe 1800 "Kermette"
1975 Beta coupe 1800 x 2
1974 Beta Berlina 1800
1989 Thema i.e turbo
1988 Thema i.e turbo
Fiat 1500
Smoke me a Kipper i'll be back for breakfast
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JohnFol
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« Reply #24 on: July 07, 2023, 10:17:32 AM » |
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I know this is an old thread but it contains some great information.
When making replacement door cards, the bit that worries me is fabricating the contours. How are people "sculpting" the panel for the 3D effect?
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SanRemo78
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« Reply #25 on: July 07, 2023, 11:52:58 AM » |
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This project was on my radar for my Coupe but since I sourced a replacement interior it's dropped off. One door card is gone from the handle downwards and the other is water damaged but will provide a template for the backing cards. I am going to make a batch of these from 4mm plastic sheeting that's rigid enough for the job and should be easily routed/drilled for all edges/holes. It's actually an agricultural product for sheeting fences/pig enclosures! I'll have to make a router pattern from plywood but it ought to be easy enough to bond the internal door covers to it with Sikaflex or similar. I wouldn't want to try stitching through it though.
It may be a while before I get to this but if anyone else wants to take this over and run with it I'm happy to help!
Guy
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Hawk HF3000 - Square Arch Stratos Replica - owned since 1988.
Alfa Romeo 159 T1 2.4 Q4 Sportwagon - Believed one of 4 in UK.
Fiat Panda 100HP and now!
A Lancia Beta Coupe 1981 2 Litre
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WestonE
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« Reply #26 on: July 07, 2023, 05:15:10 PM » |
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Hi Guy
Pick a plastic you can staple to as contact adhesive or Sikaflex is not enough. I had mine made in plywood, but something weather proof and softer would have been a good idea.
Eric
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peteracs
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« Reply #27 on: July 07, 2023, 05:32:02 PM » |
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Hi John
I have a pair of door cards from an IE Coupe, one is water damaged down the bottom, the other is undamaged, both are good as far as the fronts are concerned if you need any.
Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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SanRemo78
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« Reply #28 on: July 07, 2023, 06:43:49 PM » |
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Hi Eric - thanks for the advice, I've just tried it and a simple paper stapler punches through it very easily.
Cheers
Guy
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Hawk HF3000 - Square Arch Stratos Replica - owned since 1988.
Alfa Romeo 159 T1 2.4 Q4 Sportwagon - Believed one of 4 in UK.
Fiat Panda 100HP and now!
A Lancia Beta Coupe 1981 2 Litre
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JohnFol
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« Reply #29 on: July 18, 2023, 03:49:18 PM » |
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Hi all, my aim is to make a new set, rather than just retrim but on-line articles show stretching, gluing or stapling fabric to a flat board. What I can't work out is how to make the raised sections as shown in the first post.
Plan A is to take a mold of the original, and fill with "something" such as foam, or fiberglass. Covering will be more tricky than on a flat surface particularly as I want a soft touch, i.e. foam backing. Has anyone made the 3D parts of the door card, who could offer a bit of advice?
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WestonE
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« Reply #30 on: July 19, 2023, 07:04:48 AM » |
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Hi John
The door card is flat with a metal section attached by machine pressing it into the hardboard! The moulded structure bits come away easily from the old backing once all the staples are removed. For me the tricky bit was working out how to pop rivet the metal bit to the new plywood backing. If I had used a plastic that can take staples I might have been able to hammer the OE metal tangs into the plastic to hold the metal section.
A more fiddly job than I expected.
Eric
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JohnFol
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« Reply #31 on: August 05, 2024, 03:19:38 PM » |
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This was my first effort using plywood, different foam thicknesses and a piece of aluminium trim for the top edge. Quite happy with it until I messed up the door handle and lock cut outs (socket is for the window winder) Since then I found these 2 videos and am inspired again https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGeP574bXBwhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAwfZXOwxU8He has re-used the foam so it's a bit too make-or-brake for me if I mess it up. One bit I can't work out. He rivets the metal trim, but every time I rivet anything the back of the rivet is no where near flush. Has anyone else managed to re-attach the trim? I seem to recall Eric might have. |
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JohnFol
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« Reply #32 on: August 05, 2024, 03:29:48 PM » |
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And this is what happens when I rivet
Back bit is too long, particularly if it's a narrow gap at the top of a door
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WestonE
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« Reply #33 on: August 05, 2024, 06:49:31 PM » |
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Hi John
Look up peel back rivets for a solution to the lump. You can also get recessed sort of countersunk rivets. I no longer remember exactly what I did. I think the house move did my memory lasting damage PTSD style.
Eric
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Clifford3051
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« Reply #34 on: August 05, 2024, 10:33:36 PM » |
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Very informative videos Jon.
Thank you for finding and sharing.
C
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