Spyder restoration - long time coming

[peteracs]

Hi Eric

Just bought a couple. Should be with me next week. Wish the tank problem was so simple to fix…

Moving house is never pleasant, a year on and it will be a distant memory.

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi

Received the valves. On taking the old one off it was impossible to blow through it either way so was definitely the culprit. New one installed and works fine. Also now have one for the HPE….

Peter

[peteracs]

One thing which has bugged me since getting it is the rear hood cover. It fits really well around the rear of the hood, and the side poppers fasten in nice and snugly, but the rear hood window is pretty inflexible and hence the when folded curves out over the top of the rear seats and it is all but impossible to fasten the remaining three poppers of the cover, one in the centre and the other two adjacent to outer edge of the rear two seat backs. So I decided to make three extension straps with poppers to allow the cover to be fastened in the remaining three places.

I bought them on Ebay (15mm ones) together with the staking tool and they arrived today. I used a piece of one side of Velcro to try it out as that was the only strong black tape I could find and will give it a go driving as I go out on Sunday to a local car meet. I had tried it without the three fastened and it was pretty obvious the cover was going to depart rearwards when you got up to a decent speed.

One other thing is that I have not had any sediment in the new filter I fitted (yet). I guess the trip to Goodwood will decide how bad the problem is.

Peter

[Nigel]

Hi Peter,
I guess that the window material is a slightly thicker type than original
causing a bulkier fold. Perhaps the hood fabric is also thicker.

Glad to hear your fuelling is cleaner.

I wonder if the filling action stirs up sediment, it probably would to
a degree.

Nigel

[peteracs]

Hi Nigel

The hood material is the mohair type, not the original vinyl so is probably more pliable. The issue is most likely the window material which is less pliable than the original from memory. I have in the past forced the cover on by bending the window material, but there was always the danger of causing creases in it which would not come out and hence look unsightly.

I did actually fill up on the way back from our local get together and I would have thought just driving along would stir up any sediment.

We will see how tomorrow and the trip to Goodwood goes.

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi

So far no sediment in the filter.

Had a bit of a mishap with a visit to a local meeting, hot day and on arriving the engine overheated. Turned out when I adjusted the clutch I dislodged the spade connector from the live feed for the fan. The connector is to a flying lead on the fuse unit I installed, I have now tie wrapped the two ends together of both flying leads from the fuse so that cannot happen again. It does not appear any damage was caused which is a blessing.

As it is a year since I last changed the oil and approx 1300 miles and with Goodwood and Beta 50 coming up I decided to change the oil and filter. Good news is that although it was quite dark, no other issues with it, ie water or fuel smell, just old oil.

Goodwood will be a good test as getting there and back is nearly 500 miles over two days.

Peter

[peteracs]

Back from a 2 round trip to Goodwood, so 450 or so miles completed. No major dramas which was nice. Just a few niggles to sort.

First was a bit of a weird one. The fuel level indicator seems to work well, and was reading half full, so decided to top up during the journey. When I started to fill up I got blow back almost immediately and then found it impossible to put more in the tank. Not sure what was going on, may have been a over sensitive fuelling gun as clicked out after that, but the blow back was odd. Anyway I continued and had enough to get down to the friends place I was staying in near Chichester. That evening with the indicator showing nearly in the red I went to a local filling station and filled up with 9 gallons quite happily.

Another niggle on the journey which was quite pronounced at the end was related to the speedometer which has always swung about, but now makes a clicking noise in time with the swing. So will need to see if it is cable or the speedometer itself.

Lastly the engine temp. Going down the temp stayed constant even queueing on the M3 for several miles, but on the way back after around a couple of hours the gauge started to creep up, not seriously, but no great reason either. Putting the cabin heater on stabilised it. As the outside temp reduced normal service was resumed. Checking the coolant level showed it was as it was before setting off, so a bit of a mystery and probably leave it u til something more definite happens.

Peter

[peteracs]

Had a quick check over the engine bay and noticed the alternator/water pump belt was looser than it was originally, but the alternator is still firmly fixed, so assume the belt has stretched a little as it was new approx 1700 miles ago. This could explain the temp going high if the belt was slipping. Beta 50th should be a good test. Also noticed a couple of weeps from rubber pipe joins which I will attend to, no noticeable loss of coolant, so not too serious.

One thing I had noted when the engine overheated and was a bit of a surprise was the way the temp needle goes steadily higher and then all of a sudden shoots to the right. Had a quick play with the two temp sensors on the top of the engine by individually earthing the two. The green/red wire connects the temp sensor and that varies the needle according to the temp, but the white/black wire is connected to the over temp switch and when that is earthed, ie simulates and over temp, it not only lights the light on the dash it also forces the needle fully over to the right. So that explains the sudden movement of the needle from getting hot to way too hot…..

Had some vibration over the weekend at the front when above 60 which sort of came and went, so first port of call is having the wheels checked for being balanced. Checked the struts, they are original with most likely only 26k miles, they look perfectly dry and the bounce test as best as I could did not show any issues.

Peter

[peteracs]

Hmmm…

Started the car today to give a FINAL run before Abingdon and had a bit of a shock. The oil low pressure light now comes on when at idle where it has never done before. Upping the revs it goes out, but the oil pressure needle does not go quite as high as it did over the last weekend. Had a check on connections and all appears ok, so a bit stumped. Any suggestions as to why and is it likely to be a big issue as the car appears to run quite happily. The oil and filter were only changed just before last weekend.

Peter

[Nigel]

 Peter,

Curious indeed. I don't have any super ideas but what I would do
is change oil and filter again and use 20/50 Classic type oil, assuming
you haven't used that already.
That's what I'm using in mine.

If you can check pressure with a real hydraulic gauge, all the better.

Good luck
Nigel

[peteracs]

Hi Nigel

Years ago I bought from Opie Castrol Magnatec 10w40 which I have been using so far. I did wonder if the oil had not faired well with the high speed run to and from Goodwood. So as a change of tack I have ordered some Millers Pistoneeze 20w50 which is slated for pre 1980 engines although with modern additives etc. I am using a Bosch filter which also may have a bearing as I have had a Mahle one before.

Should get it changed before Abingdon now.

Peter

[Neil-yaj396]

Eric W swears against 20/40 & 20/50 (designed for the sump gearbox in the Mini.....?) but I've used it in my lower power engines without issue and it helps with surge in a non-baffled sump. I'm on 15/40 at the moment which has been good for surge and not leaking much.

On the low indicated oil pressure (when cold?) could your sensors be on their way out? Common with the pressure sender but perhaps not so much with the warning light.

[smithymc]

Peter

I could never get mine to idle without the oil light on using 10w-40 and mine hasn’t done much mileage.

I have used  20w-50 for summer use and when I couldn’t get anything else, but now use 10w-50 , which is what it says on the sticker under the bonnet. No oil light issues.

Mark

[peteracs]

Hi Mark/Neil

Thanks, in theory mine has not done many miles either, though cannot prove it. It will be interesting to see the result of the 20/50 and yes did note Eric’s previous comment elsewhere. I do not suspect the sensors now, it worked fine all last weekend, but the needle on the pressure gauge has never been too much above the red zone and I noticed on warm up this morning the needle was slightly higher than yesterday initially, then was down on the border of the red after warm up. I do suspect that it is oil related. Interestingly Haynes quoted 20/50 oil.

Peter

[WestonE]

Hi Peter

Time for a deep sigh from me. The bottom number on oil viscosity is how fast it gets to your bearings on start up/ warm up. i.e. if I could buy 5W 60 I would for our engines. Actually I use 10W 60 and an oil cooler and an Accusump and that is with a baffled sump. The 60s clearances of our engines do well with a higher top viscosity and most wear is from lack of start up lubrications so why on earth would you want 20W 50?

Some race cars use it BUT they are very carefully warmed up before being thrashed and have very regular oil changes.

I am off to lie down in a darkened room.

Eric
Ex Oil Company Automotive Division.   

[peteracs]

Hi Eric

Yes, I knew I would get stick from you as I had read your previous posts, but I had to start somewhere and that was starting with what I understood to be the original grade recommended, so bear with me on this one.

I have used the 20W50 and the difference on the pressure is quite noticeable both on higher revs and on tickover. I suspect this oil will just be used for the Abingdon weekend and the car will most probably not be used much before next year now, so will most likely have the oil changed before it starts being run during next year and then I can move to a Millers Pistoneeze 10W40 one and see how that performs.

Peter

[peteracs]

Another bunch of miles now racked up, over 2000 in total since getting on the road just over a year ago. Latest was the 50th weekend.

The oil pressure appears to now be stable, I am trying to get some oil pressure before actually starting from cold which is not too difficult with the mechanical pump as it takes a bit of cranking before the engine fires, then letting it warm up with low revs before moving off.

Only bit of drama on the way down was a self inflicted one, ie I had not properly tightened up the wheel bolts on one wheel and mistaking the noise for an inner CV issue, I managed to lose the locking wheel bolt, before I realised my mistake. All very embarrassing and hopefully will not be a mistake I make again. I have spare wheel bolts in the boot, so I was able to carry on without any further mishaps, thanks fully. Replacing the missing locking wheel bolt is more expensive it appears than just buying a complete new set, so new set ordered.

During the weekend I was fortunate to drive Nigel’s HPE which was interesting to compare, not having driven a different Beta for 40 years. The end result was noting that

A) My brakes work really well
B) My gear lever movement is very sloppy and some attention is required to tighten it up. First port of call is the small tie bar which appears to have movement in the ball ends and potentially a bit up up/down movement at the swivel at the back of the front subframe. There also may be play in the ball and sockets. I have used a new kit from John in the US, but the balls are original and could be worn.
C) Although Nigel’s car has a bit of a flat spot on acceleration, the engine pickup felt more more crisp than mine. I have suspected for a while that the car still runs rich, so a bit more playing with float levels will be the first port of call.

Apart from above hiccup, the 50th weekend was excellent and the run out on Saturday where we did around 100 miles was most enjoyable.

Peter

[Nigel]

You're too kind Peter.

A) "Nigel's brakes were rubbish in comparison"

C) " The HPE has a massive flat spot, and an adjustment made no difference"

It was a really good experience driving yours, as I also hadn't driven another for
some 30 years. She pulls well from any speed/rev. Your brakes did surprise me though.
I don't recall such a bite on such a high pedal ever, even on new Betas.
Something to strive for, or closer at least.

I found no issue finding all the gears but I'm sure you'll be able to
improve what you have.
I did omit to tell you that I have Marks short-throw gear lever kit fitted which
definitely changes the dynamics. I also have US Johns plastic sockets fitted,
with no noticeable wear on the ball parts. My link rod is all steel but a home-assembled item.

Best regards, Nigel

[peteracs]

Hi Nigel

Spent a bit of time, read an hour or so, under the car today looking at the small link rod which we saw having some play in it. I did remove it which is a bit of a faff, but it is set to the correct size compared to an old original link and the balls are firmly seated in their housing, the problem was one of the fastening nuts was not fastened enough and allowed some movement. I reinstalled it and although still not as slick as yours, it has reduced the slop. None of the other ball sockets appear to have any play, so it now it is what it is and will not be changed.

You did actually mention that you had the short throw kit from Mark, which will change the feel, certainly for the better.

Peter

[peteracs]

I had completely forgotten another revelation by swapping cars over the weekend.

Nigel has the seat further back than I do and on swapping back I could not adjust the seat back to where I needed it. The cause was the rod which links the two sides of the adjuster had come out of its holes (not for the first time). 5 mins of fiddling under the seat restored it, but after Nigel commenting that should not happen and his seats had plastic clips to retain the rod, the penny dropped that I had seen those clips before.

So today I found a small plastic tub which had all four clips safely stored away from when I stripped the seat runners to clean them. They are now installed and hopefully the rod will not come out again.

Photo below of the clips in case you have no idea what they look like.

Peter