Spyder restoration - long time coming

[peteracs]

On thinking about this system, am I correct in that it basically determines the relative toe-in/out between the two wheels and does not make any reference to the actual body of the car? This would work well for the front wheels, but how do you ensure that the rear wheels are measured relative to the chassis? It would be very easy to set them up correctly relative to each other, but at an angle to the chassis if that is the case.

Peter

[WestonE]

Hi Peter

I will be heading for Hunter Laser 4 wheel alignment very soon after the car moves under it's own power because toe in/out is only part of the mix. Set back is very likely with fully rebuilt cars. This is one side shorter than the other wheel center to wheel center. Sliding the rear roll bar in it's clamps can sort this out. Also camber front and rear. Before caster gets considered.

Use the string method to get you safely to first alignment IMHO.

Unfortunately Beta wishbones and rear links are always a pot hole away from dramatic mis-alignment especially when they have corrosion.

Eric 

[peteracs]

Hi Eric

Interesting point on the side to side front/rear wheel distances. I had not considered that. Not sure my setup will be the same however on the anti roll bar as I have the original setup with ball joints fixed to the rear hubs. I will check the distances later today to confirm if they differ.

Peter

[frankxhv773t]

Peter, as I understand it Tracright is intended for front wheel alignment, which is mostly what owners are concerned with. However, if one can assume the car was built accurately in the first place, could one not simply ensure that any rear tracking adjustment was shared equally between the adjusters on each side?

[smithymc]

There is more knowledge on here than generally at large as usual. When I took mine to be 4 wheel aligned they did the front and said the back isn't adjustable. Computer says no!

Mark

[peteracs]

Peter, as I understand it Tracright is intended for front wheel alignment, which is mostly what owners are concerned with. However, if one can assume the car was built accurately in the first place, could one not simply ensure that any rear tracking adjustment was shared equally between the adjusters on each side?

Hi Frank

In a perfect world I guess so, but given the adjustments are measured in mm then I would not want to assume so. The adjustment tubes do not look to be the most accurate and the joints at either end could have threads cut to differing depths etc. You are also assuming the centre mount is very accurately positioned etc.

Peter

[WestonE]

Hi Mark

That sounds like operator idiot in action. Or perhaps his kit does not do 4 wheel alignment or his computer does not have setting for the rear on a Beta. There are factory published setting front and rear for Betas and we all know there are rear adjusters. I built mine with double rear adjusters as you see on Integrale. Fortunately Adams & Page my skilled local tyre fitters also do a lot of race and track days support, have Hunter 4 wheel alignment and know how to use it.

Betas with the suspensions settings correct and good bushes are fantastic cars to drive which is one of the reasons I have stuck with the build I am doing.

Eric
PS many modern cheaply made cars have no adjustment at the rear or need shims to adjust them. We are lucky. 

[peteracs]

A quick check on the front to back distance of the hubs with the wheels off and hence at full travel gives a difference of 5mm which does not seem too bad, so not going to do anything about it.

Peter

[frankxhv773t]

Peter, I should perhaps have put the "if" in block capitals. One of the hot rod builds my son was involved in required fitting the largest possible wheels under the back of a Ford Galaxy. It threw up all sorts of aggravation till they realised the wheel arch on one side was further forward compared to the other and the discrepancy was measured in inches!

[peteracs]

Hi Frank

That sounds a bit like the Mustang that Retropower are restoring which they show on their weekly update videos.

Peter

[peteracs]

A few jobs ticked off today.

The foot brake connecting rod in the engine bay was shortened using the barrel adjuster. Gives the brake pedal a more normal feel for now. Expect that I shall recheck the bleeding of the brakes before I finish. I still have one pesky joint on the master cylinder where a very small amount of brake fluid appears after a while. I have tightened the bolt up a few times, but suspect the joint may need remaking at some point.

Main job today was tightening the suspension bolts on the front and rear anti roll bars, the rear transverse link arms and checking the adjustment of the rear brake balance valve.

That now leaves a relative small list of jobs to do until I can get the car tested etc. Some of them will take some time however...

Finish fitting rear hood. Currently fitted, but needs some stretching as excessively tight at present, going to try using a steamer which I have seen recommended.

Resolve door seals which currently are too thick in places to allow the doors to close.

Fit front wing indicator lenses. The wiring and bulb are all installed and working.

Fit windscreen. I will use professional company, but need to decide which of my 3 windscreens to use. All have one or more issues, so I need to go through that and decide.

Fit wipers and new blades. I have a few to choose from, but need to check just how good they are condition wise.

Adjust headlights

Adjust door glass as I must have reinstalled it incorrectly positioned as it currently leaves a gap when fully closed

Peter

[squiglyzigly]

Nice to hear it’s nearly time to roll. You must have that feeling of excited apprehension?

Curious to hear what’s wrong with your 3 windscreens?
I have 2 spares and unfortunately they have issues as well. Notably delamination in the corner (air bubbles and channels).  I’d like to know if it’s possible to inject some kind of resin? Has anyone ever had this problem repaired successfully?


Cheers
Ian

[WestonE]

Hi Peter

You will hate this, but just get a new screen. Spoiling the ship for a half penny of tar moment. Let your existing screens go to someone doing an economy rolling restoration. It not as if these screens go into rubber seals which are relatively easily removed.

Eric
Pilkington supply them.

[peteracs]

Hi Eric

Yes, does depend on if any of them will be acceptable which I do not know yet. I had considered buying from Pilkington, but there was a discussion some time ago about the mould they have being poor and the glass not fitting correctly. Have you offered it up to see how well it fits? I am happy to be told they fit 100% and will look into it. I have no wish to fit something which I wish I had not..... especially I have taken two screens out of this car already!

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi Eric

Out of interest who did you buy the screen from? I assume Pilkington use dealers/distributors?

Peter

[WestonE]

Hi Peter

Pilkington direct after a conversation at the NEC show. I hope I have stored it well because I was told by a fitter screens can delaminate in storage so best to get them close to fitting time. Obviously I have had my new one for years. It is not possible to try it on the car now because the car is still at the paint shop.

Eric
PS the screen is not here either it is in my parts lock up.

[Neil-yaj396]

Peter I think the debate around the ill fitting Pilkington screen was eventually attributed to a mix up around a bonded v rubber seal version?

[peteracs]

Hi Neil

I thought it was more serious than that. The difference between the bonded and rubber seal is essentially a size one, ie the seal one is just slightly smaller. I have had both here together and the curvature was the same, just around a cm or so to account for the seal. The issue I remember was that the fit in one or more corners was out by quite a bit such that it was not possible to fit it.

I did come across this post however, so suspect there may not be an issue.

https://www.betaboyz.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3959.0

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi

I sent an enquiry off to Pilkingtons and received this reply.



“Good morning
 
Please see below options and the prices.
 
If you wish to proceed, please complete the attached form with as much information as possible.  Please note that due to the custom made nature of the item, payment is required on a proforma basis.
 
Please note that the price does not include VAT
 
The screens are made to order and our current lead time is 12 - 14 weeks.  Delivery is £40 to a Mainland UK address.  The glass will arrive wrapped with foam edge protection and a Triplex sticker
 
Eurocode
Description
Price
4716ABLBL - Blue with a blue top tint LANCIA BETA 1600-2000 CPE+HPE 76-83   £368.39
4716ABZ - Bronze LANCIA BETA 1600-2000 CPE+HPE 76-83   £389.49
4716ABZBL - Bronze with a blue top tint LANCIA BETA 1600-2000 CPE+HPE 76-83   £368.39
4716ACL - Clear LANCIA BETA 1600-2000 CPE+HPE 76-83   £315.92
4716ACLBL - Clear with a blue top tint LANCIA BETA 1600-2000 CPE+HPE 76-83   £289.75
4716ACLGN - Clear with a green top tint LANCIA BETA 1600-2000 CPE+HPE 76-83   £325.96
4716AGN - Green LANCIA BETA 1600-2000 CPE+HPE 76-83   £316.61
4716AGNBL - Green with a blue top tint LANCIA BETA 1600-2000 CPE+HPE 76-83   £327.04
4716AGNGN - Green with a green top tint LANCIA BETA 1600-2000 CPE+HPE 76-83   £327.04
 
I hope this is helpful
 
Kind regards
 
Emma Dony
 
*Please note quote are only valid for 3 months*
 
Customer Services Representative
 
Tel: 01527505209”

[HFStuart]

Wow - comprehensive and not too extortionate