Front brake hoses

[Nigel]

I've just fitted new brakes hoses that I received back in April from Online Car Parts.
The part number is SL3141 [x4] and the clips [x4] at the top end are 24.5004-00031.

If you're wanting no-frills standard hoses, I recommend these.
Perfect length [510mm], correct rubber sleeves for the clamps and drilled for the roll-pin.
They've also got the wear-cable clips attached, but you won't need all of them.

Also installed today, the new OEM discs [from Aus] and Ferodo pads, incl brake wear
cables, sitting on a shelf since November!

[WestonE]

Nice Work Nigel

Change the bleed screws for new ones fitted with copper slip on the threads and caps or they will seize creating the horrible snapping bleed screw game.

Eric

[SanRemo78]

Has anyone ever considered fitting banjo bolts with an integral bleed valve? Something like this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114826729987?hash=item1abc34da03:g:hiMAAOSw5q5gr0gt

(not sure if the thread size/pitch is right so don't rush to buy this one!) but this might be a alternative fix for a snapped bleed valve?

Guy

[peteracs]

Hi Guy

It has been mentioned before and I think Mark sells them.

My only concern is that they bleed before the cylinder, so getting rid of the air fully may be an issue, though if you do have a broken bleed screw is a good solution.

Peter

[Nigel]

Thanks Eric.

I was lucky that all the bleed screws freed off last year, although I had to
apply some heat to a couple of them!
Caps I have, just not pictured.
I see Mark has brass nipples in stock.....is that the best material being softer than steel?
...and better for corrosion resistance between dissimilar metals?

Nigel

[WestonE]

Hi Nigel

It should be. With the worry that if they do seize brass is weaker.

Eric

[peteracs]

Hi Nigel

I bought stainless ones, will be interesting to see how they survive. After a right pain with some of the Beta callipers I took off and nearly had a broken one on the Saab I am going to, as part of the maintenance every couple of years, put the pressure bleeder on and undo the nipples so that they are not left too long tightened up.

Peter

[mangocrazy]

I'd certainly prefer stainless bleed nipples over brass, due to the superior strength of stainless, as Eric says. You will still get galvanic corrosion between the aluminium caliper and the brass bleed nipple, but the brass will shear much more easily. I'd suggest that the best approach, as Peter suggests, is to exercise the joint by bleeding the system at regular, and reasonably frequent, intervals to nip any corrosion buildup in the bud. I'd also apply a wipe of anti-seize compound (aluminium or copper) to the bleed nipple thread during assembly.

[SanRemo78]

Is there a threadsert kit that could be fitted so any corrosion is between that and the body leaving the bleed nipple out of the equation?

Guy

[Nigel]

I'm a bit of a Copa-slip fanatic, tending to use it everywhere.
So I'd definitely use it on new bleed nipples, and it's already on the existing,
somewhat crusty ones.

Peter, I like the stainless idea a lot. Much stronger than brass.

As it happens, I used my new pressure-bleed kit for the first time yesterday with great
results. Although I then experienced a full-to-the-brim reservoir, which I had to
syringe out. Perhaps that's normal?

Are these bleed nipples fairly standard, meaning thread size?

[peteracs]

Hi Nigel

There are various threads used on the nipples, the Beta ones are M8 x 1.25 according to my order.

On the bleed kit I simply fill the reservoir and do not fill the bottle on my bleed kit.

Peter

[mangocrazy]

I've used stainless bleed nipples extensively on motorcycle calipers and HEL are one of the brand leaders here (along with Goodridge). For under £20 you can replace all the bleed nipples on the car:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261376066361 - set of 4 bleed nipples for £12.95

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233766122570 - set of 2 bleed nipples for £6.95