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Gerhard
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« on: July 26, 2012, 11:47:27 AM » |
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Hi All,
On top of all the other (engine) problems, here a new one. While driving back from the garage behind the Beta, I noticed that the car is crabbing. Got the car on the lift and this I found.
Questions:
1. What are these two bars called?
2. What, most probably, could have caused it? (Looks like old bent's by the amount of rust)
3. Can one take them out, heat them up and bent to straight again?
4. Or should one just do a straight replacement? (Provided one can find the parts in South Africa)
Thanks,
Gerhard
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thecolonel
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« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2012, 12:11:47 PM » |
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Transverse links,
More likely someone has jacked up the car on
the bars. Unlikely to find new ones, however,
you can unbolt it, straighten it or find s/hand one,
One is adjustable, one is fixed length to enable
tracking adjustment.
Similar bars are fitted to Beta, gamma, some alfa etc.
Geoff
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2012, 12:22:07 PM » |
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Damage to the transverse arms is usually either incorrectly jacking of the car of them being used to tow or winch the car up onto a recovery vehicle and will definately result in the symptoms that you describe.
Personally, I would replace them with stronger home made versions or undamaged originals - they are pretty straight forward to replicate.
I'm sure HongKongPhooey (RIP) made his own as part of the restoration of his Spider - so maybe search the forum for posts under his profile.
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
1976 1600 Coupe S1
2007 Ypsilon 1.3 Bi-Colori
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Gerhard
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« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2012, 12:24:46 PM » |
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Sir, I salute you!! Thank you for the fast feedback. I am now tracing the happenings back from when the car was collected when the cam-belt went the second time. And it seems as if you observation can be what happened.
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Gerhard
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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2012, 12:30:06 PM » |
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Damage to the transverse arms is usually either incorrectly jacking of the car of them being used to tow or winch the car up onto a recovery vehicle and will definately result in the symptoms that you describe.
Personally, I would replace them with stronger home made versions or undamaged originals - they are pretty straight forward to replicate.
I'm sure HongKongPhooey (RIP) made his own as part of the restoration of his Spider - so maybe search the forum for posts under his profile.
Hi Matt, long time since we last chatted. Thanks for the inputs, Geoff also just suggested it. When the cam-belt went the second time we were not present when the car was recovered. So Inspector Clouseau is now investigating with serious intent. (You have to keep your sense of humor!!) |
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Gerhard
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« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2012, 12:47:09 PM » |
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Celebrations, I managed to get the two parts from Lancia Auto SA for R1, 060.00. Here's the question; If you remove the old ones, will anything go "boing" (as in spring loaded) or will it be a simple removal of the old parts, and the slotting in of the new parts? It also seems as if I will have to remove the back silencer box to get to the top bolt?
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« Last Edit: July 30, 2012, 01:44:26 PM by Gerhard »
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2012, 01:20:00 PM » |
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Gerhard,
The hard part will be getting the bolt out of the rear hub, the bolt rusts in the centre (because its exposed to the elements) and that can make it difficult to extract once the rust blisters the surface of the bolt shaft.
If you are only replacing the pressed steel rod, rather than the adjustable transverse arm then you should be able to do a straight swap, if you change the adjustable rod then you'll need to have the toe checked on the rear wheels.
I don't think anything is going to go "boing", as your not going to be messing with the rear Anti-Roll Bar - if you remove that then you are going to have a little bit more difficulty. It will just be a drag removing stuff so you can get at the nuts & bolts that hold the 4 links in place
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
1976 1600 Coupe S1
2007 Ypsilon 1.3 Bi-Colori
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Gerhard
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« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2012, 01:25:00 PM » |
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Hi Matt, I am going to replace both of them. Thanks for the heads up. I actually unbolted both on Saturday but then bolted them back without removing anything. That was when I realized that I will have to remove the silencer box. Now that bolts are rusted beyond believe.
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2012, 02:04:12 PM » |
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When removing the long bolt that passes through the rear hub and the two transverse link arm bushes, here is what I do (this assumes you have access to a compressor & air tools): 1. Wire brush the rust off the threaded end and then cover all visible thread in grease. 2. Slacken the nut off and stick the air wrench on the bolt head. 3. Get an old screwdriver or chisel blade and using the air wrench spin the long bolt. 4. Use the tip of the blade against the rusty section of the bolt to scrape off as much surface rust as possible while the bolt is rotating. ( Like a rudimentary lathe )  5. Cover the scraped section of bolt with oil/grease and drift bolt out gently. 6. Clean up the threads with a thread cutter / die and de-grease the bolt. |
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
1976 1600 Coupe S1
2007 Ypsilon 1.3 Bi-Colori
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Gerhard
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« Reply #9 on: July 31, 2012, 02:15:17 PM » |
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Thanks for the info. No, I do not have any of that luxuries, only use brute muscle power. (Christiaan's)
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Gerhard
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« Reply #10 on: July 31, 2012, 02:17:50 PM » |
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Come to think about it, I most probably will sweet talk the local tyre place into fitting them, with the understanding that they can do the balancing etc. afterwards.
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #11 on: July 31, 2012, 04:52:02 PM » |
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Good idea Gerhard !!
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
1976 1600 Coupe S1
2007 Ypsilon 1.3 Bi-Colori
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thecolonel
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« Reply #12 on: July 31, 2012, 07:39:48 PM » |
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Fortunately I have access to 1 inch wide rolls of
Aluminium Oxide abrasive, great for wrapping
around the bolt shaft. Pretty sure you can still
purchase it.
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Gerhard
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« Reply #13 on: August 15, 2012, 08:21:47 AM » |
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Update on this.
Got the parts and took it down to the local tire place. Installed them, did the wheel balancing etc. Then noticed while they working on the car that the brake pads look a bit thin. Got the front one's replaced but apparently replacements for the back is not so easily found. Any recommendations?
The pinging is still there, and the car is now back with my mechanic to sort it out.
Anyway attached some photo's of the offending parts.
Thanks again for the advise I got from all.
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