Lancia Beta Forum

Hi Comrades,
I'd like to ask you if there is any way to regulate oil pressure on the oil pump?
What should be the proper pressure values for a 2.0 unit?
My engine even was refurbished (unfortunatelly with old oil pump installed) when is warm seems to have too low pressure. At iddle the warning lamp comes out and the gauge is close to the red field, at higher rpms is about five milimeters right from the red zone. Is that normal? I use semi synthetic Motul classic 15W50.
For sure I need to measure the oil pressure with an auxiliary gauge to be sure what is the exact pressure.
thanks for your advices.

The oil pressure light switch is about 15psi (I think) about 1/3 on my dash gauge equates to 65psi on my mechanical gauge. Pressure is supposed to be 65-85psi when hot at 6000rpm!

The dash gauges do vary  - like you said the only way to check is with a proper one.

Beta oil pumps aren't generally too problematic so the old pump probably isn't really too much concern so long as it was disassembled and cleaned however low idle pressure does suggest that the oil pressure relief valve could be sticking so if it is low on an external gauge I would consider dropping the sump and checking out the pump/ relief valve assembly.

I have experienced the low oil pressure light syndrome when I first had my Beta I used oil filters without a bypass valve.  For example FRAM PH7

Thanks, first I will measure the real pressure.

How does it work? I have never heard about it.


So there is no regulation at the pump pressure release valve?

i think that any by pass valve in the oil filter would only be there for safety in case the filter became blocked, I suspect this wouldn't affect the actual oil pressure (?)  

You need to make sure your oil filter has an anti drain flap so you get good start up oil pressure but the pressure relief valve is not normally a problem it is for safety i.e. to stop the filter over pressuring and exploding. The pump has a pressure control valve and spring and the spring must be the right length. For oil cooler use it is common to shim this valve to compensate for longer oil pipe runs. GC explains in detail in his books how to check the oil pump over. It is more likely your Oil pressure sender has a failing sensor inside or the gauges have poor connections/ earthing. Test it with a proper high quality capillary Oil pressure gauge then decide if you need to inspect bearings.

Eric 

I measured the pressure today. When cold: 2bar at iddle and 4bar at 3000rpm, whet fully warmed: ca. 0.25bar at iddle and 1.8bar at 3000rpm. What do you think about it?
Does changing of oil grade may have sense?
Thanks

No advices? :/

haven't had time to check the tech data on this, if I have time tonight I'll try to check this

the only info i can find is that pressure at 85c and 6000rpm should be between 4.5 and 6 bar

6000 seems high for what must be a static test? Though taking that as a benchmark, Lukas's 1.8 bar at 3000 rpm sees a bit on the low side. My cars have always hit top oil pressure, albeit on the dash gauge, well before max revs.

I also think this is a bit to low... I am wondering if that can be harmful to the bearings etc. even I use a high quality oil?
I will try to take out the sump and check oil pump, then change oil to Motul Le Mans 20W60.

Took the Spyder for a run today to celebrate the fine weather and was able to check the oil pressure when hot.  The readings on an independant guage were as follows.  1000 r.p.m.-  approx. .8 bar or 10 p.s.i.,  2000r.p.m.-  1.4 bar or 18 p.s.i.   2500 r.p.m.-   2.2 bar or 38 p.s.i.   3000r.p.m. -  3.5 bar or 50 p.s.i.
Even when cold the guage never rises over 4.2 bar or 62 p.s.i.  suggesting that my relief valve opens at that point.

  I fitted guage as I was worried when seeing the dash guage only just coming out of the red on tickover.  I have never had the warning light come on however.

I didn't go over  3000r.p.m. as I didn't want to annoy neighbours any more.

Many thanks Ammy for your help.  What oil do you run?
First I will go into oil with more stable viscosity, e.g. Motul 300V 20W60

Castrol  G.T.X  10 - 40 semi synthetic. The run was approx. 28 miles and the ambient temp. was 17 centigrade.

I'd suggest that's too thin.

I run a millers 20W/60 which seems to work well when the oil gets very hot and wasn't stupidly expensive either, cheaper than an oil cooler at least!

I'd tend to agree with Stuart. My engine has only done 25,000 miles and wont idle hot on 10/40 without the light coming on.

Fine on 20/50 - Millers 20/50 semi-synthetic or Morris Golden Film.

Mark

A change to Millers 20/50 last year noticeably boosted the registered oil pressure on my car.

Do you mean millers classic 20W50 or classic sport 20W50? They are both semisynthetic, and sport has a bit higher viscosity and viscosity index. Contrary Motul I mentioned is fully synthetic.

Classic.

Eventually I decided to try Valvoline VR1 10W60, synthetic oil. It has similar parameters to Motul 300V Le Mans, but costs almost half the price. A friend of mine who uses it in his rally Fiat 126 gave me a good recommendation. I will inform you about the change results.