Lancia Beta Forum

It has broken (where it passes through the bulkhead, naturally nothing poking through to get some pliers on). Any ideas how to get the bonnet open to replace it and has anyone got a spare or know where to get one.

This is soooo frustrating as the car has just come back after three months bodywork and now I can't take it for the MOT as the horn and main beams aren't working.

I've also noticed the lever on the nearside. I assumed this was a redundant LHD part but it is connected to  a cable, though there is no play in it.

I've done this two ways - both of which are a ball ache but here's the least destructive.

1. Take front drivers wheel off, remove rear section of arch liner and this exposes the shrouded bonnet release cable, pull the end out of the bulkhead and pull with pliers.

If you want the more destructive method let me know.

As for replacements, just go to halfords or any bike shop and buy a brake cable with the barrel style end stop - the ones I used needed 2 minutes of filing the barrel down slightly.

It's an easy fix and way cheaper than trying to find original.

Along with the gamma some cars had release
cables both sides.
In the past I've removed hinge pins and pulled
the bonnet forward until it has come free of the
catches.

Should really have thought about the arch liner
method, much easier.

Thanks for the as ever speedy reply Matt. No liner on my pre facelift so was able to give sheaf of cable a good yank and the bonnet popped! Bike shops had come to mind for a replacement.

Neil
If you don't have liners fitted get some quick! They seriously reduced front end corrosion , the ones from the last cars are best

Neil,

I've got a how to PDF on replacing them  if needed.

Plenty of these available on Ebay at a couple of quid each. Once had to replace one on a trolley for the disabled and was quoted £30 just for the part! Sourced a pack of 6 on Ebay for around £7.... Standard bike ones, from memory there are a couple of different size bullets on the ends and differing lengths of tails.

Peter

Got a couple of cables (mountain bike brake) from the local cycle shop for £5. As Matt says once you've enlarged the receiver hole on the handle ever so slightly these are a perfect fit.

I fixed the main beams and the horn but unfortunately the good news ends there. The catches will release with either handle with the bonnet up but once down nothing will shift it, to the point where I broke the left side handle (this was already bent from previous owner problems - as above I've always used the right handle).

Both catches seem unduly stiff. Is there any mileage in taking them of, soaking in degreaser and refitting? They've never been overly tempremental in the past.

I had this issue on my BMW and I cleaned the bonnet release mechanism with wd40 and then greased them and all was well again.

What have you got to lose?

Have you adjusted the height on the release mechanisms?  Is the bonnet pushing down on them too hard when in the closed position?

I test the mechanism by using a screwdriver shaft to operate the locking mechanism on each side when the bonnet is open....are they stiff or difgicult to operate if you try this?

Matt - The bonnet is definately sitting lower/tighter than it did before it went to the shop. How do you adjust this?

Also, should the cables be tightened in the locked or unlocked position?

Neil,

Adjustment to the height of the release mechanism is done via loosening the two 10 mm bolts in the picture, this provides a small amount of up/down movement.  This can be a time consuming effort to get just right and have both left and right handles release the bonnet correctly.

Also, its worth adjusting the height of the rubber bonnet stops that screw in/out to adjust how far the bonnet can sit down when in the closed position.  From memory I tried to set mine so that when the bonnet is closed they are compressed just enough to pop the bonnet up when the handles inside the car are pulled.   Again, this is a time consuming affair to get just right.

I have always set the cables in position and tightened when the bonnet is open, that said I always pull on the tail of the cable so that any slack is taken up. Any slack in the cable causes the handle inside the cabin to become less effective as your just using up travel on the handle to pull slack cable through.

Get someone to help you, as ideally you need three hands to do this job properly.  One person to pull the cable taught, one hand to push the locking barrel with the grub screw as close to the mechanism as possible and one hand to tighten the grub screw.

HTH


 

Thanks for the detailed reply as ever. As far as this being a three handed affair what do you mean by '....push the adjuster close to the hole...'??

Neil, I've changed the wording a little - by adjuster I should have said locking barrel - that which the cable passes through and then you screw in the grub screw to lock the barrel in place and stopping the cable from slipping backwards when you pull on the handle.

That barrel needs to be slid as close up to the body of the actual release mechanism before locking in place.... as any slack in the cable is not going to help you.

Hope Ive explained it a bit better now. 

Cheers again Matt. From your photo the pre facelift locks are slightly different and don't have the barrel you describe. The cables are just held in a clamp on the actuating arm. Will post a picture if I get a chance.

Finally got this working after a fashion with several hours of tinkering. The bonnet is still a bit reluctant to pop up, despite Matt's 'screwdriver test' launching the screwdrivers two feet into the air at the slightest tug on the lever.

As above, later Coupes appear to have improved locks. The method that worked for me in the end was;

1. Adjust the height of the locks themselves by loosening the two securing bolts. There isn't much adjustment here, but as I was having problems I put them as high as they would go.
2. Make sure any slack on the cables is pulled through (long noses pliers were best for gripping the cable).
3. Tighten both cables with the locks in the 'open' position, nearside first, checking the tension on the cable through to the offside before tightening it.
4. Adjust the rubber stoppers by screwing them in or out. These make a surprising difference to the shut line of the bonnet, but don't, on my car, appear to offer much assistance to popping the bonnet open until they reach a point where they are forcing it to sit proud.

The cables can actually be too tight, leaving too little play in the cable to fire the offside lock

Yaaay success at last Neil....  I spent hours on mine and they still are not 100 perfect but 90% is close enough for me at this stage.