Lancia Beta Forum

Hello

I have aquired a 1977 Beta Coupe that has been in dry storage for decades, 22k miles,  the car owned by a friend of mines father, so I have known it from new. Its very dusty but appears very good otherwise. I am hoping that it will be more of a re-commission than a re-build( heres hoping!). I get my hands on it at the end of the month when I move house to one with a double garage.

I could do with some basic advice - which oil, unleaded fuel additives, etc. I also have the corroding headlamp reflector issue to cure, which may be the main obstacle to an MOT.

Any advice appreciated.

Fingers crossed that it does not take too much effort to get it back on the road.   Any pictures?

New headlamps are available from www.Lanciabetaparts.co.uk (http://www.Lanciabetaparts.co.uk)


 If your re-commissioning i'd fully refurb the brakes, check the fuel tank and pipes and possibly the carb.

I would recommend getting hold of the owners manual available on Ebay or someone on here.  If its 1977 it sounds like a S2 car, what colour is the dash?  Brown or black?

i have a 1980 beta coupe (2 litre carb version), my car was similar to yours in that it was low milage but not been used for a long time, biggest problem i had was with the carb, i ended up getting a second hand one and after i put this on it runs perfect.
i would suggest you change all the service items. plugs/leads/points/coil etc..
make sure you use good quality items (ie. stuff like bosch/ngk etc.). there is alot of cheap crap on ebay,if you buy this you will end up paying twice.

If it's got the two large rectangular lights with two refelectors in each unit rather than four separate lights then you're in luck. You can split the lamps and the refelctors are metal so they can be resilvered.

Just seen the pictures of the car, looks to be very very original.  Although this is going to be a S2 car there are many S1 elements to it, Bonnet, grille, green interior etc. So I would take a stab at this being a very early S2 car, which most likely was a S1 but with a later S2 engine.

Is it a 1600 ?

Either way its a great find and you've done well !

matt

vinyl piping on seats and lack of velvet bolster section make this a series 2, the early bonnet and grille were retained on series 2 1600s

Alan

Thanks all for the information - am amazed at the in-depth knowledge of the model phasing in particular - most people have just said its a horrible colour!

A bit more info - yes it is a 1600.

It appears to have an oily coating in the engine bay and scuttle and a textured coating to the wheel arch edges.

I seem to have conflicting oil grades beteen the 2 manuals I have i.e 20-50 and 10-40 - Are semi-synthetics recommended? Any other recommendations appreciated.

What about electronic ignition?

I can hardly see the back end as it is surrounded with other stuff- including some far more valuable motors and parts that are for sale  - The Beta is in the way so has to go.

Cheers

Mark

I think I would use 10w40, colours might be a bit odd but it's all very wonderfully 70s and incidentally very very rare in that condition. Later S2FL cars were fitted with bosch electronic ignition it is probably possible to retro fit that, you'd need to find all the bits second hand I've never done it myself but I expect someone will come along to clarify practicalities.

looks a nice car.
i have a spare ignition control box for the electronic igniton model if that helps.

My non electronic ignition has always been pretty reliable.

10/50 is what the Lancia S2 owners handbook says for use, from memory I use 10/40 in my Betas.

Paint looks to be Nearco or possibly Amaranth - difficult to tell from the pictures and accumulated grime :-)  Paint code sticker should be on the underside of the boot lid.

Sounds like the car was treated to stop the dreaded tin worm.... which is a blessing!

I'd leave the ignition (just my opinion) I've found it to be reliable once set up correctly and maintained properly.

It is a proper 1970's colour with matching interior - I'd say keep it original - but I love original cars so am  slightly biased.  ;D

Whats next?

Get a new battery and some fresh fuel (premium unleaded) and see if she'll fire up?

What are your plans for it long term... are you planning on keeping/running it?

It's far too dark to be rosso nearco I think it's marrone parioli 116 or if it is metallic (can't tell in photos) maybe bronzo windsor 134

Matt?

I was thinking of a good 10/40, possibly Magnatex or a semi-synthetic.

The paint is a solid brown and looks good when you wipe the dust off - like above the headlight in the photo. Please dont get me wrong, I love the colours, its just some people dont get it ( or Lancias in general - their problem) - my nephews call it the chocolate lime! It will be kept and run so hopefully I can get it to an event soon. I should get the car (it is in its long term home at present) in next few weeks when we move house - I managed to buy it without even owning a garage at the time!

Does it need Valvemaster or simlar to protect the seats, or were the original materials pretty good?

A battery, a turn of the engine by hand with the plugs out and a turn of the key following an oil change is the current plan and see how we go from there- brake refurb, new tyres, some shades and some new 8-tracks off e-bay! The cambelt looks perfect - it was apparently put on just to start the car the last time it ran  about 6/7 years ago (such was the previous owner) and the car is stored in the dark. I am a bit nervous of starting it without a new belt to be honest so I might play safe if I am confident enough to take the job on.

Thanks to all for all of the advice again.

Mark

Genius  - I'd keep that as it's name

if you have a branch of 'the range' near you they do unipart oils as cheap as chips IMHO not worth the extra for castrol but others might disagree, I'd change the oil then drain it fairly soon after a few hundred miles to clear all the sludgey stuff out that's bound to be there from standing. Don't be too afraid of the belt change it is not too bad on a Beta but change the tensioner bearing as well I think there is more risk of that seizing after standing than the belt itself failing Beta tensioner is in two parts you can buy new skf bearings to fit the pulley at any bearing supplier (3205 A-2RS1TN9/MT33)  don't be tempted by cheap Chinese ones get a proper make SKF, FAG or similar. Just to add Fiat TC/beta montecarlo tensioners don't fit part of the joys, confusion and complications of italian ricambi!

Re fuel: my car has run for 20,000 with no trouble on a mix of super and standard unleaded with the odd shot of Redex.

I will have a look at our local bearing guys with the tensioner bearing references-thanks.

I am having to resist buying loads of stuff to make a start on the car but at the moment, packing for a house move, more stuff to lose is not what I need!

We have a branch of the range in Shrewsbury so will have a look for some oil.

Cheers

Mark

Mark

On the Oil I would use a 10W 40 of known brand and a new filter to flush the system through (100 miles max) and maybe also an oil flush before using a 10W 60 grade either Selenia or Castrol Edge with a new filter that has an anti drain flap/valve. This will clean the inside of the engine remove lots of carbon and sludge. Older oil formulations were poor (I am ex oil company).

Eric 

The colour of the interior is really not for the faint hearted!

A matter of taste. This is by far my favourite Lancia interior ever! If the owner ever wants to part with this car get in touch!

Wow!

What a great find! I am extremely envious - even if it is a Coupe!!

If you are going to press it into any form of mixed weather use, I would suggest that a set of S2fl plastic front wheelarch liners would be a sensible fitment (or failing that ensure fortnightly thorough hosing out of all the wheel arches) and fill every box section, seam, crossmember, etc with waxoyl!

Pay particular attention to the rear suspension turrets. These are the Beta's weak point these days. If they are sound now, keep them clean and mud free!

Good luck with it. And i look forward to seeing it at forthcoming events!

Oh - and it has a worthy companion, in that another member has a series 2 HPE in the same lovely chocolate brown, but with a yellow interior! What a pair they will make on display together!

regards

Andy

A bit more info -the newly received V5 declares the engine as 1592cc, does this make it a series one? - seems too late given the dates in Viva Lancia this month.

Does anyone use Castrol Valvemaster with super unleaded to get over valve seat risk?

Thanks.

Mark

What you have to bear in mind is that the UK registration date bears little relevance to the date the car was actually built. 

My S2 / FL was registered over three years after it was actually built.  This was confirmed by Tim at Fiat/Lancia UK.  But your car was built before the Fiat date cutoff, so the answer will never be known.

The 1592cc was the Series 1 engine and in my mind that's the big differentiator.

Hi Mark

Suggest that the V5 is wrong as the previous comments about the seats and the date should mean it is the 1585 engine. You can tell for sure if you look at the engine number which is on the block.

Peter

Not the first time I've heard of an S2 with '1592' incorrectly on the reg doc, in those days the reg documentation was filled out by the garage and was maybe the victim of sloppy imprecise staff if the car has a chassis number 828BC0 it is second series with 1585 engine, in the early days of the Beta I don't believe that cars sat around for very long before being sold. If you write to dvla using the relevant form and paying a fiver they will send you copies of all reg docs plus the original registration paperwork well worth the money for the cars history file

Alan   

even on the late S2FL2 cars the stock control certainly seems to have been a bit crazy both my rust bucket A reg VX coupé first reg Jan 84 and Steve Thompson's immaculate B reg coupé first reg Dec 1984 were built in May 83! No betas were built after 1984 but there are some cars registered as late as 1986, I don't recall seeing any UK VX fitted with the late style aluminium and plastic radiator introduced in production in October '83 so rather suspect that there may not have been any beta imports to the UK after '83 perhaps someone with a C reg car can check with Tim and let us know the build date on here to confirm one way or the other?

Alan

This begs the question "How do you identify the 1592 from the 1585cc engines"?

If an owner does not have access to the run of S1 or S2 engine numbers your still no wiser - if there is a definitive way to tell them apart without taking them apart then that would be helpful. 

Can anyone provide input?

I did not realise that you can still obtain the original registration details from DVLA - I'll be doing that soon now I know.

 

they are photocopies off the dvla microfiche sometimes not very easy to read but well worth having, better to ask sooner rather than later as surely some data protection do gooder will put a stop to it if they can.


http://www.direct.gov.uk/prod_consum_dg/groups/dg_digitalassets/@dg/@en/@motor/documents/digitalasset/dg_065303.pdf (http://www.direct.gov.uk/prod_consum_dg/groups/dg_digitalassets/@dg/@en/@motor/documents/digitalasset/dg_065303.pdf)

I found out that my VX coupé was originally owned by Shell UK which was a surprise

Looking at the form you can also ask for specific owners at certain dates, now that is useful to know you can ask for that. Anyone know if trying to get a full history of the cars owners is sufficient reason?

Peter

Yes

Just checked on the status of my car on the DVLA website (could not remember if I had SORN'd it from the recent V11) and noticed mine also is registered as 1592, even though it most definitely is a S2 Spider (easy to tell with them). So I guess the garages just persisted with the original engine size.

Peter

Think this look like a S1 car.....very nice one :)

What does the bonnet (when it's open) support look like? a rod on the left side of the engine bay?
Does the car has a hazard lights switch? mine does not.
S2 interior with piping, same as I have in my S1 1600 Coupe

The S1 engine 1592 has a bore of 80mm (110Hp), all other (?) Lampredi has 84mm (100Hp) bore
I realized this when I was thinking of using a Prisma head which has bigger inlet valves....
Difficult to measure with the head on.... :D

Tore

'Don't be too afraid of the belt change it is not too bad on a Beta '

Do I need a locking kit to take this on? I cant belive the last owner used one to be honest - but he was rather a better mechanic than me.

Now itching to go, as the car is finally to be moved to our new place next week so I can make a start and see what I may have let myself in for!

Mark

No worries, you don't need a locking kit. Finished mine 1600 last weekend.
Locate the timing marks, release the crankshaft nut (NB. it's not links threads), time the engine and release the tensioner. I usually cut the timing belt.
Put the new belt on while checking the marks. Rotate the engine a couple of revs to be sure everything is ok.

Thats about it  ::)

The Chocolate Lime is on its way!

The car was finally delivered today - many thanks to Russell at ARH Vehicle Logsitics 07587 527522 - great careful service and an ex Beta owner!

She's a bit ( a lot) dusty but I have given her a quick bath ( one of many I suspect before the grime recedes) and she looks pretty good. Plenty of small rust spots, but touch-up material really.There is some surface rust on the tank and the tail end of the exhaust fell off, but small price to pay for the apparent good overall condition.

Any suggestions on where to get paint ? - I fancy a tin for brush painting if possible, for touch up. Whoever said she is Marrone Parioli was right.

Here goes!

Looking good, you must be very pleased.

Keep us updated on your progress

Looks great, love the colour combination!

As usual-things have gone backwards as each job exposes a few more that need doing - no major disasters though so far.

Have tidied up under bonnet a bit, changed fluids, fuel lines, plugs,etc and can attempt the cambelt now that the timing cover has turned up ( with the inner arch panel, handbook and service book) from its long term home.
Am on to brakes at the moment - pads just crumble like biscuits and getting new ones not too easy.

A bit of advice sought - jacking and supporting - the Haynes advice to jack the rear via the plate under the bumper seems a very inefficient way of lifting- surely the square blocks at each end of the sill are jacking points? I will need to get underneath soon and would apprecaite and advice, basic though it might seem.

I also have a full tank of 30 yr old petrol - getting rid of it seems a puzzle, as no tip will take it.

Will keep plugging away, but appreciate that my issues are nothing compared to some on this forum.

Mark

Yes, the jacking points are in the middle of the sills, attached to the floor. I've had to remake mine due to rot issues, but you can support the car on stands by anything that looks sturdy, at the rear there are some solid points on the corners, and at the front the sub-frame in front of the lower wishbone is where mine is currently propped up.

To let people know that I have not been too idle, a few pictures of the new front, which reflects a lot of elbow grease on paintwork and dremel/autosol on chromework.

Must move it someone who is aproper mechcanic who can do exhaust and MOT so I can it least start moving it about - also cant get it to start( fire yes, run no).

Mark

This is going to be another nice car when its back on the road, I can tell already.

keep up the good work Mark.

Just a brief update, typed with trembling hands - shes running!

Just in from the garage where, with the help of a re-built carb, new throttle linkage ( thanks Geoff) and working out from the backfire that someone( me) had put the distributor back on out of kilter, she went first flick of the key after setting the timing roughly with a bulb. Didnt even spin over really, just like it had been parked, not left for 9 years without a turn of the key.

Sounds good with the exhaust ending somewhere under the back seat too.

Next step is does she move? Gear linkage feels pretty stiff, but then I might be spoilt by 35 years of progress in that department.

Mark

Well done Mark, you must be very pleased.  :)

Great news, well done.

Dear Mark,
Great news. Not long before "Chocolate Lime" hits the roads again.
Keep up the good work.
Chas and Anne. :)

Car had to be dragged out today, as insurers want some pics. I quick blow over with the airline and a wash and it looks pretty good from a sensible distance.

Apologies for the dirty Volvo and cardboard trash in the garage as backgrounds( remnants from house move stored under car!)

New wheels and tyres still yet to go on too.

Started her too - pulls away in neutral if that makes sense - is that the clutch dragging?

Mark

Loving that green interior more and more.  It looks even better in natural light.

A few more.

Note brick in lieu of handbrake.

Yep - but doesn't sound like it's stuck on. Probably just surface rust on the cover and flywheel or the clutch isn't releasing fully. I will probably free up with use.

Got to love the interior  - it's as though they looked at a pack of chocolate limes and decided that's the colour they wanted.

Off to have new exhaust fabricated today, so back on the transporter ( Russell at ARH ).

Really  looks 'small' outside the garage- even drove it down the drive and onto the truck. A bit of drag on the clutch to wear off, but ok for 28 stationary years really.

From exhaust she goes direct to the garage to have some real mechanics look her over and do a few jobs that are beyond my equipment or confidence.

Hope that MOT is not too far away now.

Mark

After much logistical grief over 48 hours, the car now has its new exhaust and has been moved to the garage for final pre-MOT look over and tune-up.

I think MIJ in Walsall did a great job on the exhaust, mating new to old, and creating a look based on photos I provided.

Its pretty quiet too, certainly quieter than I thought it would come out.

Mark

It looks great. At the risk of repeating myself you've got one of the best Coupes anywhere. Will be great for you to have it on the road.

Hi Mark

I am interested in the downpipe to exhaust connection, did they weld a flange onto the downpipe to marry up with the exhaust or was the flange there already?

Looks a whole lot neater solution than the old split pipe solution.

Peter

Yes, they cut back the twin pipe to sound material and made a sleeve/flange section to receive the system and make it easily removable.

Work started in earnest at Squires Automotive( who spanner my aged Volvo S60) Nr Lichfield this morning, after a full recce yesterday- happily nothing too major that needs to be sorted - brakes dragging and the choke seem main issues. Cambelt, tensioner , driveshaft boot and floaty throttle pedal all sorted this morning - amazing what you can achieve when you know what you are doing and have the kit.

Mark

Nice car! Well done!
Just one comment on the exhaust, wouldn't some sort of strain relief be appropriate in a transverse eingine car?
A flixible pipe or those shereical joints Like this:
http://www.ospreyexhaustcomponents.co.uk/index.php/flex/exhaust-flex-2-5-150mm-length-ilok-type/p_228.html (http://www.ospreyexhaustcomponents.co.uk/index.php/flex/exhaust-flex-2-5-150mm-length-ilok-type/p_228.html)
http://www.ospreyexhaustcomponents.co.uk/index.php/flanges-/-gaskets/spherical-flange-assembly-2-5-/p_231.html (http://www.ospreyexhaustcomponents.co.uk/index.php/flanges-/-gaskets/spherical-flange-assembly-2-5-/p_231.html)

I knew things would not run smoothly!

Car has been running and driving fine, but decided to use the trip to the MOT station as the time to empty one of the rear shocks - I suppose all this moving about after decades was too much for her.

Also some issue with the handbrake and the headlamp pattern ( I have the betaboyz lamps) to sort for the MOT tester- so not too bad overall.

So back to Mark W for some shock inserts - I dont reckon the other 3 will be much better.

Mark

Same thing happened to me driving my car back from the North East where I bought it. Fine for the long run on the A1. First pothole over the moors near home and the rear nearside shock was history!

At last some better news- strut inserts from BBoyz have arrived AND the originals are insert type. Just phoned garage to see if they had arrived to learn that they are not only there but fitted.

Freeing off caliper at the moment to try to improve handbrake and then back for MOT re-test hopefully.

Mark

MOT passed!!!!

Just had the word so I can get her taxed. I will hopefully collect at the weekend. In the interim the garage will do more tweaks on the sticky throttle/weak mixture and the other sticky handbrake/caliper.

Better be sunny this weekend!

Mark

Congrats Mark, you must be very pleased.

Well done chap!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mark

Great news and a fantastic car back on the road.

I look forward to seeing it.

Eric

Ah, "On the road again" - yes that sounds very appealing - shame I have not seen or driven her since she passed her MOT, as the sludge in the tank has been removed to reveal a leaking tank, so she is still in bits at the garage!

Literally broke down on their way to put some petrol in for me to collect it.

Bills mounting, but no real surprise after so long in hibernation.

Here's hoping its soon- hoping to get someone to seal the tank, or I will have to go and get it, seal it and take it back - I am sure the guys at the garage want her out of the way too- they have been very good putting her inside every night with another car parked beneath the ramp for added security. Not that it needs it- you would need to remove about 8 cars to get near her.

Mark

Update- tank is back on after repairs at local racing tank specialist ( strange who you find locally when you look)- off for road test  so....hopefully......................

Mark

Hi Mark

What did they do in the end?

Peter

Peter

I am yet to find out fully - they are someone that the garage guys knew from racing a Caterham. They have certainly cleaned it out and done some welding, but for the price I don't think they can have done any lining . Might try the POR 15 kit if not.

Mark

Back home safe after my first drive of a beta coupe- Rather eventful as she broke down only 2 miles into the 25 mile trip. So limped back to the garage for carb stripping ( learnt a lot there) before setting off again. Had forgotten quite how much fun a sick car in modern peak traffic is!

She's still rather lumpy, but it is clear that the timing is varying - I assume the distributor internals must be sticking.

Loved the drive in the end , but the seats! My back is killing me - too old for this game (and several others).

Mark

Just to prove that she does run, albeit not perfectly yet, a video should appear via the link:-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rzh6x4kgwosmjq8/IMG_0178.MOV (https://www.dropbox.com/s/rzh6x4kgwosmjq8/IMG_0178.MOV)

Following this run out, have sent the distributor to H & H for re-furb, so I can hopefully reduce the issue to a single variable - carburation

Mark

Looks and sounds great! I am very jealous and it is in such great 70s colours too

After a bit of a wait I know have the refurbed and contactless distributor back and on the car. Idle is nice and steady now but test drive still showing it to be holding back somewhat.

Nice spin round on a warm evening though and as a special treat for me the rev counter has decided to start working again!

Getting there.

Mark

Spoke too soon on the rev counter- sulking again- but have bought a timing tight with a tacho, so have made a better attempt at setting idle and timing- much better.

Also fitted the NOS steering damper I got from Holland via Ebay. I thought mine might be ok given the limited use the car has had, but it was like a trombone when I got it off. Really does make a difference to the steering and refinement as felt from the drivers seat.

Will give it a bit of a sparkle( got muddy last night due to flash flood residue) ready for tomorrow at Prescott.

Mark

Nice run out in the Beta today combined with a bit of National Trusting.Still running a little rich I think, but pretty good overall and attracted some attention when parked up.

Came back to attempt a few small jobs, including the drivers window mechanism. I bought a NOS regulator over the winter from the states - only to find its for the wrong door- despite clarifying in advance which side was which.

Don't seem to have much luck with long distance parts - the throttle pedal pivot I bought from South Africa was broken in exactly the same place as the one I was trying to replace.

Mark

Are you regulators electric or manual? I think I might have a new early style regulator somewhere that I might be able to spare if I can find it no idea which side it is without looking though.....will try to check next week end

Mine are good old manual ones.

If you can help out that would be great.

Mark

Only got electric ones I think and only one early one

I think we'll need those pivots mode in aluminium soon - they all seem to break eventually. Particularly if you're a bit enthusiastic with the throttle!

Just heard that the MOT has gone though again, with no work from me other than re-connecting a main beam wire I had somehow knocked off when putting the rubber seal/cap on.

Only downside was cloudburst conditions after I dropped it off- sunny now though so must be an omen.

Off to discuss with mechanic whether he suffered the mystery steering 'hum' while off to the testers.

Result!

Some may know the link between my car and Dickie Attwood, of Le Mans fame.

Anyway, I sent him a few picks and a letter, expecting nothing, when this letter arrived this morning.

What a gent.

Car passed MOT this morning with no advisories - which my modern cars seem to be unable to do, given the state of the roads and resultant suspension distress.

That hurdle done, the fuel tank comes off Tuesday night to get to bottom of crud in fuel issue.

Then its all clear for Betameeta hopefully.

Mark

Tank back on and a 70 mile shakedown tonight across North Staffordshire. No issues with fuelling, only the exhaust blowing - again, the day after it was re-welded.

Oh well, you pay peanuts and get monkeys. They are are going to be pretty fed up of me by the time they get it gas tight.

All set for Betameeta 15- bring on the sunshine.

Not a great test drive this evening- got about a mile and it broke down again, so the dirt in the tank issue is still active and calls for more drastic measures.

Lucky not to be selling the wreckage for spares  from the number of dozy too fast/ too close/ asleep people about. It really was inches rather than feet a few times, as she conked on the A5. The AA man seemed to not want to take too much apart for some reason, but we got it home, me kangarooing in front while he followed.

Has put the AGM off the menu, I'm just amazed how it went so well for so long for Betameeta.

Mark

The particles required to block the jets can be so minuscule and it just takes a few of them to be dragged through I guess. I'm still not sure how they get past even cheap filters though. Are all the rubber fuel lines new? If not, the modern fuel could be eating at them too?

Pity you'll miss the AGM. The Chocolate Lime would have been a good addition to the recently thin Beta line up! I'm away at 1130 to go to a wedding near Derby, so FNC will only be displayed briefly.

Everything forward or rear of the metal lines is new, so I guess it must be the tank. Need to get my finger out and do something with the tank quickly, but really busy elsewhere at the moment.

Sorry to miss showing the car tomorrow but it's virtually all motorway for me, so a 'limp it and fix it' approach isn't really on - hope all goes well after your organisational efforts. Well done.

Mark

Hi Mark

How new are the hoses and have you taken them off to look if there is ANY attack on the rubber by the petrol (even on relatively new hoses)? There are instances of folk who have changed hoses and they have split due to fuel attack within 12 months.

Also have you given the carb a really good blow out/clean to make sure there is nothing still hanging around?

Peter

Peter is so right.  I'd "cleaned" my carb. then swilled a drop of petrol from side to side and was amazed to see the amount of "crud" that appeared in the bottom.  Removed it,  carried out another swill and even more appeared.  It sits in the drillings at the bottom of the carb. and needs patience to get it all out.

I better get some carb cleaner then! The lines still seem fine- the crud is hard 'mineral', looks sandy or rusty.

Thanks chaps.

Mark

Those ultrasonic cleaning baths are apparently the best for fully cleaning carbs. A friend once told me he but a carb body that he'd previously cleaned manually in one and the fluid was black with dirt in a couple of minutes.

Don't know anyone who has one sadly.

I washed out the lines this afternoon and am suspicious now. There is definitely hard sandy stuff in the filter but also black stuff that my be rubber( or just crud that has fallen from the outside of the hoses)

Have ordered some Danish made(Coadn)ethanol safe hose that is supposed to be good.

Darren Cooksey has an Ultrasonic Bath and frequently cleans carbs in it as he spends a lot of his time re-building the increasingly worn and fragile OE carbs

Got some decorating time off for good behaviour this afternoon so, after a mouthful of super unleaded and some swearing, tank is now off again- must say it was rather easier last time with 1- help and 2 - a pit, rather than on the floor with just some blocks to lift the rear 100mm.

Again loads of fuel left in with gauge on red and having siphoned 20L off- just managed to store it all, and crud could be clearly seen again - it must be an issue beyond the visible area/baffles.

Have touched up a few bits of surface  rust on perimeter around tank with satin hammerite, but all very sound as ever. Main odd issue is blistered under seal, which I put down to exhaust heat ( it is pretty close at one point) but also present a over tank, which hope doesn't get hot!

Now for the POR process of lining, so may even be roadworthy next weekend.

Mark

Underseal can blister when it gets penetrated by damp, as well as by heat.

Thanks Neil, will cut out and repair with rubberised paint stuff I have obtained. Then see how it goes.

Interestingly, the 'dry' tank sounds like a maraca this morning. Would like to get as much as poss out, so lots of manic shaking and inverting of tank this morning to entertain neighbours!

Mark

Ok- technique sorted - tape up orifices except one breather and stick a vacuum cleaner hose down the filler neck . Hey Presto! No rustle or rattles from within.

The tank's or yours?

It was hard to tell, I was so knackered from shaking the tank about!

Tank cleaned out, and resin in. After another session of tank dancing to amuse the neighbours, it is now dating for the required 96 hours- so it should go on this weekend.

Main tip - read ALL of the instructions and don't wear anything you might ever need to wear again. Oh, and double glove. If this stuff sticks to steel like it does to human, it will last pretty well.

Really didn't want to put her away not running.

Mark

Tank in and car running, but new fuel leak now on return line. I assume either a cracked 40 year old line, or the internal pipe in the tank is blocked and it it back pressuring the return line. It would be nice to know how long the line is inside the tank to feel sure it is clear. I put wire down and blew all the pipes out when I drained the resin, but this one is so small a blob may have blocked it.

Bugger- it was going so well and I really fancied a drive today when I saw the weather forecast earlier in the week.

The saga and the frustration continue.

Hose on return line changed and petrol can be heard trickling into the tank nicely as the car runs.

BUT, when I switch off, I have petrol ( small amount) fizzing up around the sender bolts clearly under pressure, the little nuts on  which are as tight as I dare. One stud sheared off anyway under virtually no torque, but oddly no leak from that one. The issue only lasts for a minute or so after switching off, seemingly until pressure equalises.

The one issue I noted with the resin solution is that the 'floating' ring clamp inside that tank that the sender bolts to no longer floats. The resin is so hard, I even think a drop in a thread may have caused the stud to shear before it was even home, so no idea how you could free it.


With the broken stud I am on the search for a new tank anyway or looking at getting one made, but quite like the idea of a smaller aluminium tank inside the old one.

Any ideas on any aspect?

Hi Mark

Sorry for being a bit dim, but are you meaning the level sensor which has the outlet and return pipes on it?

Peter

The sender unit can be tricky to seal down at the best of times. I take it you used a new gasket? Probably academic if one of the studs is broken though.

Are you thinking that one of the breather outlets is blocked, over pressurizing the tank as well?

I'm not familiar with the floating ring clamp?

Gasket is off a nos sender. The ring in the tank is what links the studs - they are independent of the tank.

The pressurisation thing is a bit weird yes, when there are 2 large dia vents back up to the filler neck. I suppose they could be blocked but I blew them out with the airline when i had drained the resin and filled them with electric flex while the stuff was sloshing about.

Whatever, that looks like the end of a rather low mileage Beta season.

Anyone got a tank they don't want?

Mark

Latest is that some thread seal appears to have stopped the problem.

However, I am still a little mystified by the pressure issue. At the risk of being really dumb, here goes -  only the pumped return line can be pressuring it I think, and that must make a very limited influence on a tank with 1 gallon sloshing about in the bottom.

So, with the fuel in the bottom of the tank, where is the fuel coming from that blows past the threads?

There's probably a simple answer.........

The tank should pressurize a little as the fuel is drawn out. Do you have a sort of non-return valve in the vent line (or is that a facelift thing)?

Is the fuel actually leaking from the return pipe 'over' the sender rather from beneath it? Last year I had fuel seeming to come from everywhere on the sender. After a couple of goes tightening and un-tightening everything (send line, return line, all the little nuts) the leak finally sealed off.

Dragged her out for a sunny trip to shops- Lost tickover for a while with assumed residual grot, but overall ran fine.

Good to be back.

Now, am I brave enough for a longer run in this sunshine over the next 2 days. Hmmm...................

Couldn't resist the sunshine with it being SORN minus 2 day.

Took to a site visit, 60 miles round trip and it ran fine. Felt great.

The tank pressure issue may just have been that there was so little fuel in the tank.

Mark

Great result Mark especially after all the work, shame you are now going to put it to bed for the winter now, especially as the weather is pretty fair.

Peter

Got roped in to chauffeur my nephew and his mate to school prom last night, dodging the storms but got there dry.

Lots of very exotic stuff there, but the style of the choco-lime shine through naturally.

I couldn't compete with the lad who turned up in a combine harvester though. Quite a sight in the middle of Walsall!

Mark

Hi Mark

Photo please....!

Peter

Latest update- car has passed MOT, no advisories and I have the hub ready to swap.

So, today is the long booked rolling road session at Aldon Automotive.

To start the day, the car objected on the way there and got a vapour lock ( blocked return line) , so, probably getting its retaliation in first for what it knew was coming, deposited half a pint of petrol on my shoes when I took the cap off. Many odd looks in meetings that followed, but happily no smoking.

Aldon clearly took this seriously and put a couple of YTS lads on it.

Anyway, my work finished, I strolled back for the tale of woe.

Vapour lock sorted, carb stripped to sort over-fuelling issue and float height set and new needle. Timing reset. Then started the tuning, which I got a chance to see.

Slight misfire at high revs  above 5500rpm, meant new set of leads- nice blue ones so must be good.

Carb up-jetted on primary, they were otherwise happy. Car drives nicely on the way back, not a revelation, but a noticeable increased willingness to rev and nice pick-up on the primary choke. The popping and banging from the exhaust did not concern them, they just said its the exhaust baffles( probably blown out)- not that their treatment did it many favours.

For those with an aversion to cruelty to the elderly, don't click below.

 https://www.dropbox.com/s/2qekwgcdimc9rmo/IMG_2827.MOV?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/2qekwgcdimc9rmo/IMG_2827.MOV?dl=0)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/l2ch4u7i5v68kys/IMG_2829.MOV?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/l2ch4u7i5v68kys/IMG_2829.MOV?dl=0)

Nice one Mark, looks like it is a common thing to up the primary jet size with modern fuel.

Obviously they have an extended YTS scheme over there.........

Do not forget my photos pretty please.

Peter

Hub swapped. Didn't alone sort brake wobble as disc clearly set to old form. So, new discs tonight (how I hate those calliper wedges).

Result is great, smooth braking from any speed. Also great to try new tune on quiet roads and the difference is noticeable . Mix of more md-range and stable braking makes for addictive and brisker driving immediately.

Mark

The old girl got a present from DVLA this morning ,in the form of her ‘historic vehicle’ status so no more tax.

Easy process in the end.

Mark

Just an update. After a quiet 2108, the car had a rude awakening in the unusually warm weather in February.

Have done an oil and filter change today with some Penrite 10w50 I bought at the NEC show. Test drive seemed fine but, unless I’m mistaken, the top end of the engine seems slightly more noisy at idle- there has always been a bit of gearbox noise if you stood that side, but the engine has always run like a sewing machine. So, jury out for the present.

Another oddity- one that has always plagued the car but not tracked down- is a periodic tendency to give a ‘wineglass’ type whine on left lock at low speed - well it does it on both locks now! Wheels all cool to touch. Sticking piston?

Any feedback welcome.

Mark

Hi Mark

Sticking Calliper slides are more likely. On the tappet noise check the clearances cold. Your oil change might have remove the dirt providing insulation. For more hot protection I recommend 10W 60 and you can find a full range at Opie Oils.

Good Luck

Eric

My 1300 engine is always tappety after an oil change or a period of non-use. It usually clears up after a run.